Quick Cob 12

Advantages of Long Leaf Pine Needles in your landscape: It supplies the best level of level of acidity for your plants to soak up optimum soil nutrients It does not float and get rid of and breaks down more gradually, so it does not require to be reapplied as frequently as other mulches It is simpler to handle and lighter per cubic foot than other mulches: one large bale can cover as much location as 30 cubic feet of the majority of mulches the cost per square foot is competitive with other mulches It breathes better, doesn't compact, and permits much better water infiltration It is easy to use: simply unroll the bales and scatter by hand It does not bring in termites It includes organic product and nutrients to soil and reduces weeds The uniform color and fine texture of pine straw draws out the color, contrast, and texture of your landscape You can use it for erosion control where grass will not grow to hold soil, even on hillsides and courses

FAQ

Which Tree Should I Plant?
I Would Like To Plant A Row Of Trees, But I Can'T Be There To Take Care Of Them More Than Once Or Twice A Week. I Wanted To Just Transplant Small Trees From The Area To Where I Want Them. I Live In North-Eastern, Lower Peninsula, Of Michigan. The Soil Where I Plan To Put The Trees Is Very Sandy. The Place Is Mostly Sunny. Here'S The Tricky Part...I Would Like Something That Would Grow Relatively Fast And The Trees That I Would Like To Plant, That'S The Same As In The Area, Is Either Balsam Fir (Abies Balsamea) Or A Eastern White Cedar (Thuja Occidentalis), And I Know That A Cedar Won'T Usually Last Long In Sand. I Might Consider A Spruce (Picea Glauca) Or A Scotch Pine (Pinus Sylvestris) (Even Though There Are Too Many Of Those Scotch Pines). Any Ideas? Additional Details I Want To Use The Trees That Are Already Growing On This Particular Piece Of Land And Also Something That I Can Use For Boughs During Brushing Season So That The City Slickers Can Have Nice Wreaths To Hang. I Am Not Going To Buy Any Trees, Just Transplant Neighboring Trees. I Asked This Exact Same Question Before But Nobody Seems To Understand The Question. 3 Out Of 3 People Wanted Me To Buy Trees That Weren'T In The Area. Please Read The Question Thoroughly.

Balsam is by far the most popular for holiday decorating. The Thuja is best as an accent in a bough arrangement. I can't say I've seen a whole cluster of Thuja......but maybe it's more common there. Spruce is a harsh needle, hard to work with. Scots Pine......hmmm, maybe. It's better for the sandy soil, but not as fast growing as the Thuga...Eastern White. Did someone mention a Juniper? Those you have to be careful about the smell.......one of the junipers smells more like urine than juniper.....not great for decorating.

How Would You Move A Tree Without Causing It To Go Into Shock And Die?
I Have A Pomegranate Tree.. It'S Fairly Young. It'S Only About Maybe 2 Feet Tall. And I'Ve Noticed That The Part Of The Yard I'Ve Put It In (A Long Time Ago) Is A Bit Shady. I Want To Move It To The Middle Of The Yard Where There Is More Sun, For It To Grow And Mature Better. How Can I Do This Without Causing It To Go Into Shock?

1. See what type of soil your plant should go in and see if you can get that type to go around the existing dirt. Just make sure that your plant's gonna be happy with it's roots in whatever you're putting down for it.

2. Dig the hole where you're going to put the tree first based on what you expect to be hauling over there to it. You may need a wheelbarrow for the transplant. Also, if you can, put the dirt on something so that you don't have a bit blotchy spot in your yard from the mud that you spread around.

3. You should dig about a foot radius around the trunk or more (liberal rather than conservative on the rootspace of the transplanted tree) and transport it immediately into the other hole. Make sure you get the rootball. If you dig too shallowly around the plant, and you try to pull it up without getting it's main roots, it's gonna suck and you might kill it. at least a foot, foot and a half deep around the tree (actually, I might be telling you wrong; you said 2 foot tree? well however wide the branches go out, is usually a good indication of the size of the roots, just make sure you get them!

4. Haul it over immediately to the other hole, plop it in, put your dirt mixture in and don't pack it too hard. You want the hole to be able to suck up water so that your plant gets some of it when it rains, so build up a 1 foot radius cup around the edge of your hole with the good dirt in the center, and the ground dirt that you dug up on the outside rim. Sand is porous, and usually good to mix in if you're just using regular dirt; if you have potting soil, though that's probably a good mix that you don't have to adjust. You can use a water hose to get the dirt around your plant settled and everything while you make your plant's cup, just make sure you get your dirt nice and settled before you leave.

5. Mulch is very good at keeping in moisture. I don't know what type of environment it is designed for, but since you are moving it from the shade to the sun, it's going to dry out quicker than before. So mulch it.

6. Make sure it's got good water coming to it for the next few months. I'd say water it at least twice a week. If it gets thirsty it will wilt and that's not good for the plant at all.

Warnings:

I don't have a pomegranate tree, so I don't know the conditions that it likes: Research that beforehand. What I have given you is a very basic rule of thumb for when you transplant things.
A list of things to look at specifically when researching are:

1. Does it like shade or full sun or somewhere in between?
2. Where do I live? Where did the plant come from? What temperatures/environment is it used to?
3. Does it like lots of water? or can I drown it by giving it a steady amount of water each week?
4. What type of soil does it like? Acidic? Basic? Clay? loamy soil? Should I put it in potting soil or something else? What kind of mulch should I use? Should I put down mulch? (pine straw is acidic)
5. Bugs; anything to worry about there?
6. Can I use miracle grow to make it happy?

Can You Use Pine Straws For Parakeet Bedding?
I Know That You Can Use Newspaper For Parakeet Bedding But I Have A Yard Full Of Pine Straws Can I Use That As An Alternative???

i didnt use or give anything to my parakeets and they have already laid eggs and hatched different birds 3 times, when the mother died, one of the daughter parakeets laidher eggs in the nest and had another little bird, i never gave or put anything in thier nest. all i did was buy a wood nest and they carved it themselves

14 Mth Labbe Usually Inside; Fenced In Area Becomes Muddy And Floods When It Rains. Pine Straw In The Area?
I Want To Stop The Mud From Coming In The House. I'M Wondering If This Might Be Better Than Making The Whole Area A Sealed Cement Slab. I Thought Sand Would Be A Bother In The Home; Too Hard With Gravel. This Area Is Mainly Used For Her To Patrol Her Fenced In Area And Where She Goes To The Bathroom Until She Comes Back In The House. Any Suggestions, Would Be Appreciated.

I might try a pine bark mulch rather than pine straw. The pine straw breaks down quickly and would need replacing often.

First Time Breeding, Questions About Foaling.?
We Are Breeding Our Tennessee Walking Horse Mare To A Stallion Tomorrow. We Have Had Her Ultrasounded Earlier Today And Everything Is Going To Be Ready. We Are New Breeders And Have A Trainer To Help Us Out With Everything. My Mother And Myself Were Wondering, Even Though Foaling Will Be In Eleven Months, What Is The Suggested Bedding? We Are Nearly Done Building Our Foaling Stall And 'Baby-Proofing' It So That No Feet Can Get Caught Anywhere. My Mother Is Considering Going With Straw Then Pine Shaveings. Our Local Farm Supply Store Carries Straw Bales And Pine Shaveings In Large And In Small Sizes Of Shaveings. I Have Been Doing Constant Reserch But Some Little Details You Just Dont Find In Books Or Online, Some Have To Come From Those With Experiance.. Thanks!

Broodmares who are foaling must always be bedded on STRAW, NOT SHAVINGS. The reason for this is that the shavings will cling to the foal's wet coat after birth, and they can cause a serious infection if they work their way into the body through the navel stump ( what's left of the umbilical cord after birth) which could prove fatal to the foal. The infection is called navel or joint ill, and it is a kind of septicemia, or blood poisoning. Straw does't cling to the coat, and in fact, swatches of straw can actually be used to rub the foal down and help the coat to dry. When the foal comes, you will want to treat the navel stump immediately to prevent infection, because it is an open channel into the foal's body. To do this, invert a shot glass (like you'd use for whiskey or a liqueur) filled with 10% iodine solution over the stump of the navel. The iodine will clean and cauterize the wound, allowing it to close and heal on its own. You can buy this solution at most farm and feed stores, and also at many drug stores. Just make sure that you read the label or ask someone to make sure that you get the right stuff. Betadine is NOT strong enough, and will NOT provide the kind of protection the foal needs. Dipping of the navel stump should be repeated at least once after birth- again, the important thing is that the wound must be kept clean so it can heal.

Once the baby is about a week to ten days old, you can start to bed the stall with shavings. Prior to this, however, you will want the bedding to be straw, and it needs to be very deep ( minimum 6-8 inches, with the walls banked to prevent either mare or foal from getting cast) and kept scrupulously clean. On the subject of cleanliness, the stall needs to be free of excessive dust and cobwebs, as well as free of obvious hazards such as nails in the walls. Hangers for buckets and feeders should be rounded with smooth edges, and they need to be placed above the height of the foal's face. ( Foals can run into and lose an eye on things like screweyes and hooks, so it's best if they aren't even in the stall. At the breeding farm where I used to work, we fed the mares and new babies in flat rubber tubs on the floor of the stalls, and in a specially designed creep feeder outside. )

Once your mare is checked in foal, you will want to make sure that you keep her on her normal feeding and work schedule, at least for the first 8 months or so of her pregnancy. The foal will not start to really make major nutritional demands on the mare until she is about 9 months along, so you will really not need to increase her feed in a major way until then. Feeding mares a lot of grain too early in pregnancy only makes them fat, and this can cause problems for your mare at delivery, just like it would in a human. One other thing to remember with regard to feeding is that starting about a month before she foals, you will want to add a small amount of wet bran to her feed, and then increase this gradually so that by the time the baby is born, the mare's diet is about one third bran. This will help prevent colic and digestive problems, which can be extremely dangerous in mares who are close to foaling. And as an addendum to this, make sure that the first meal the mare eats after she foals is a bran mash, and that you continue to feed her bran for at least the first week after foaling. ( You can go back to the regular amount of bran after the first day of the foal's life.)

Otherwise, management of a pregnant mare is largely a matter of common sense. It goes without saying that your mare will need to be kept up to date on her worming and her vaccinations ( particularly those for rhinovirus and WNV, as well as the flu and tetanus) and that she will need regular farrier visits throughout her pregnancy. If she wears shoes, she will need to have those pulled about 3 weeks to a month before she foals, to reduce the chance of injury if she accidentally steps on the baby. Grooming is all important as well, especially the mare's underside and the area around her udder. This serves a couple of purposes- one, it gets the mare used to having this area handled and touched before the foal makes its first clumsy attempts at nursing, and two, it allows YOU to see when the mare begins to bag up. Bagging up, or filling of the udder, starts about 3 weeks to a month before foaling in most mares. The udder will become firm to the touch, and the teats will enlarge. As she gets closer to delivery, your mare will start to produce some clear colostrum ( which is the first milk the foal will get when it is born) which will gradually turn cloudy. 36 to 24 hours before delivery, the colostrum will turn completely white or opaque, and become sticky, like honey or karo corn syrup. At that point, you will also be able to see little beads of it around the mare's nipples- this is what is known as "waxing" and it is a sign that partuition isn't far off. There will also be other signs, such as a relaxing of the mare's muscles in her hindquarters ( this is most visible if you look at the mare's flanks- you will notice a definite hollow in front of the hip that wasn't there before) and what my old coach used to call the "starving dog look", that occurs about 12 to 18 hours before foaling. This is caused by the foal dropping down into the mare's belly. If you see this, it's time to bring the mare inside, and keep a very close watch on her.

Make sure that you have your foaling kit handy at this point, for you will need it shortly. Foaling kits are easy to make. Basically, you will need the following:lots of old, clean towels, 2 or 3 large, clean sponges, plenty of hot and warm water, a roll of twine, scissors, a bottle of 10% tincture of iodine solution, a shot glass for treating the foal's navel stump, the makings for a bran mash for the mare, standard stall cleaning equipment and tools, a stopwatch or timer for timing the mare's labor stages ( your vet will want this information if something happens which shouldn't) your vet's phone numbers and contact information, a bucket or another suitable container to store the afterbirth in once the mare passes it, and plenty of new straw for rebedding the stall after the baby comes. You will also want to have a tail wrap or sheath for the mare's tail- this will keep the tail clean and out of the way during the foaling, and will help prevent infection in the mare. Lastly, you may want to ask your vet about having some Banamine on hand to give to your mare after the birth in case she has after pains. After pains can be severe in some mares, and they cause symptoms that look like a case of colic. This can interfere with the mare's acceptance of and bonding with her new foal, and it can also prevent the baby from nursing, which is very risky to the baby.

Two other notes on the subject of foaling, from my own experiences with it ( remember, I worked on a breeding farm for over 4 years, and during that time helped with the births of lots of foals) are: first, it's extremely important that the foal nurse, and nurse frequently, during his or her first 12 hours of life. This is because the colostrum, which is what the mare's first milk is called, contains live antibodies which will protect the baby from infection and disease until its immune system is developed enough to do the job. A foal who doesn't get its full share of the colostrum is at serious and even life threatening risk for disease. After the foal is 12 hours old, the chemistry of the gut changes and the antibodies are not as easily absorbed, so nursing is crucial to the baby's survival. If your foal seems to be unable to nurse, or is uninterested in nursing, you are dealing with a very SERIOUS MEDICAL EMERGENCY !!! YOU MUST get your vet out right away !!! This brings up my second note: nursing also has benefits for the mare as well- namely, it helps her pass the placenta. It's also critical for her health that she pass the placenta in one complete piece- a mare that retains even part of it for any length of time is at serious risk of infections, and she can also develop founder as a result. ( Founder was what killed the racehorse, Barbaro, back in January of this year.)

This is the reason why your mare will need to be seen by the vet on the morning after the baby is born. The vet will examine them both to make sure they are healthy, and that the mare has, in fact, passed the placenta normally. He will also look at the baby to make sure it is healthy and nursing normally, and will probably give the foal a tetanus shot. The vet will give you information on what to expect as the foal grows- as well as setting up a time schedule for the foal's shots, deworming, and farrier visits with you. Meanwhile, I want to say good luck to you, and congratulations on your decision to breed your mare !!!!

Quick Cob 12

Visit Our Local Pine Straw City for information on delivery and installation

Folly Beach

from
http://pinestrawlandscaping.com/quick-cob-12/

What Can I Use To Mulch Strawberries

Advantages of Pine Straw in your landscaping: It provides the best level of acidity for your plants to take in optimum soil nutrients It doesn't float and get rid of and breaks down more slowly, so it does not require to be reapplied as frequently as other mulches It is easier to deal with and lighter per cubic foot than other mulches: one big bale can cover as much location as 30 cubic feet of the majority of mulches the expense per square foot is competitive with other mulches It breathes better, doesn't compact, and enables better water seepage It is simple to apply: simply unroll the bales and scatter by hand It does not bring in termites It includes organic material and nutrients to soil and minimizes weeds The consistent color and great texture of pine straw draws out the color, contrast, and texture of your landscape You can utilize it for disintegration control where turf won't grow to hold soil, even on hillsides and paths

Frequently Asked Questions

October/November Wedding.....?
My Fiance Are Planning An October Or November Wedding. We Are Having A Backyard Wedding And Have A Really Tight Budget ($1,500). What Are Ways To Decorate Fencing And A Way To Make A Creative Alter That Is Not Common. It Is Not Formal, Very Casual Actually, We Just Want It To Look Nice. Also Where Are Cheap Places To Rent Chairs And Tables In Southern California.

it depends upon whether it is an evening or daytime wedding.

for an evening wedding, get those twinkle lights that drape over bushes and things and drape them over the fence. set some pots of fall flowers around the fence every few feet.

or you can use tulle and bows. tulle is very cheap to buy by the yard. just get lots of it and gather it in bunches to swag along the fence and fasten at each post and put a large bow, either out of ribbon or more tulle and perhaps a flower in the middle of the bow. let the ends of the bow hang down long toward the ground for more elegance.

balloons are also good inexpensive ways to decorate a fence. they look very festive. do balloon bouquets in fall colors and tie them in groups of 3 or 5 along the fence at the posts. let their ribbons hang down to the ground.

for an altar area, you can buy a white metal arch from places like michaels or ben franklin craft stores for about 10 dollars. decorate it with tulle, flowers, ivy garlands, twinkle lights and/or balloons and use it as your altar area. you can line a little walkway up to it with potted fall plants or pillar candles or even bags of sand with tea lights in them.

use potted plants from lowes or home depot set about to decorate, even as centerpieces. you can stick a candle in the middle of a 3 dollar potted plant for a nice centerpiece. tie a ribbon on the plastic pots if you wish or set tea lights around them on the tables. scatter fall leaves on the tables for a great fall look

you could also use bales of hay or pine straw for an altar area. just stack them up to create a backdrop and then put potted flowers on them to decorate.

for cheap tables and chairs this place is as cheap as you will find them. they have chair for 1.00 each. http://www.vistapartyrentals.com/id53.ht...

Cleaning A Stall Question!!?
When You Clean A Horse’S Stall And You Are Taking Out Bedding Etc, Do You Take It All Out And Then Spray It With Some Bleach Or Something And Then Let It Dry? I Heard That To Get Rid Of The Ammonia You Have To Do Something Like This. Or Is That Only With A Certain Types Of “Footed” Stalls? If It Is Only With Certain Types Of Stalls Such As Cement “Footed” Stalls Then How Specifically Do You Do The Whole Spraying Thing?

Typically, your stall is cleaned often enough that there shouldn't be build up of urine or manure. To keep your horse healthy, stalls should be spot-cleaned daily and manure and wet bedding removed. More clean pine shavings, straw or other suitable bedding material is added to replace the used bedding that is removed.

If you are using stall mats, its very easy to remove the mats and hose and disinfect them regularly.

To do a thorough cleaning, all bedding is removed and a concrete or solid-floored stall can be scrubbed down with a heavy duty deck brush and hosed out. If you want to disinfect, a mild solution of bleach and water can then be used. Packed dirt should simply be cleaned down to earth and raked even.

We have livestock, and I typically do a complete bedding change about once monthly. I only do a complete removal with major disinfection twice yearly, generally before kidding/lambing season starts and before winter temps drop and everyone is spending most of their time indoors. As the majority of the animals' time is spent outdoors in good weather, a daily cleaning is enough.

If you are renting a stall in a barn or rotating animals, its a good idea to disinfect to prevent transmission of any disease that may be carried from one animal to another (such as hoof and mouth). This also helps keep internal and external parasites at bay.

What Is The Best Way To Learn How To Maintain The Back Yard And Front Yard Of A House?
I Would Really Appreciate Any Suggestions Like Which Book Is Good, Which Website, Or Should I Go Somewhere To Learn Or Hire Somebody To Teach Me? I Have A House With A Yard With Lot Of Pine Trees And Some Other Trees Like A Magnolia (Lots Of Dead Leaves Under It) And A Weeping Willow (Lots Of Dead Branches And Stuff Under That One Too). There Are Also Magnolias And Other Bushes, And Something That I Think Are Rhododendrons And A Lot Of Other Stuff But I Have No Idea What To Call Them. There Is Also Grass Here And There (I Don’T Know What Kind Of Grass) And Between The Pine Trees And The House. I Never Had To Maintain A Yard Before (Used To Live In An Apartment) But Now I Need To Take Care Of My Yard, At Least Clean It Up, And I Have No Idea Where To Start, And What Tools To Use. Once I Learn How To Clean It Up, I Will Move Forward About Learning How To Plant Stuff Maybe. Thank You For Any Imput.

I started learning about how to take care of my trees, plants & yard by going to the library & getting books on landscaping & plants in general.
It's fun & exciting to learn about all the possibilities. I also kept an eye on how my neighbors worked in their yards & gardens... and asked a lot of questions. LOL

If you have a large yard you need a riding lawnmower, if it's small you can use a walk-behind mower. A garden fork, small pruners, & a bigger heavy-duty bush pruner would be my first picks followed by a rake, shovel, hoe, & the biggest hose you can get or several medium size hoses which connect together to reach the space you have to water.You can use the heavy-duty garden fork to dig up the plants that you don't want. If you want to put in a plant, the fork can be used for digging without compacting the soil for better drainage & you can use it tilted sideways to break up clumps. Your plants may need trimming so the pruners help. If you have large bushes, you'll eventually need a hedge trimmer. If you have an electrical outlet nearby your bushes, an electric hedge trimmer would be handy & convenient. You'll need a heavy-duty extension cord that'll reach to your bushes. If you have really large bushes that you're taking out, a chain-saw would be easier & faster than trying to do it any other way. Small bushes can be cut down with a heavy-duty bush pruner & a pruning saw.

Here's some sites to get you started:
Gardening websites
http://www.gardenguides.com/
http://www.jerrybaker.com/
Landscape Design
http://www.plantoasis.com/
Meditation Garden
http://www.cacradicalgrace.org/resources/garden_plan.html
Country Gardens
http://www.cg-designs.net/design-process.htm
Stone Patio & Path
http://www.dataexe.com.au/eds/townhouse.htm
Classic Landscape
http://www.classiclandscapes.co.uk/portfolio/planning_graphics/plan2_large.jpg
http://www.arcadiagardendesign.biz/img33.htm
Garden design winners
http://landliving.com/articles/0000000139.aspx
Small Landscaping Plans
http://www.addis-gardendesign.co.uk/plan2.htm
Lawncare
http://www.yardcare.com/
Good luck on your gardening adventure!! Hope this is helpful.
P.S. Yes, you can use your pine needles for mulch...it's especially good for acid-loving plants. My roses love the pine needles around their base & it's included in my protective barrier around the roses during the freezing winter. It protects...but doesn't smother them.

How Much Do Chickens Cost?
As In Like How Much Would It Cost For The Pen, Coop, Food, Everything.

Okay the chickens themselves:

***Baby Chicks $2-$3 each ... 1yr olds/point of lay hens: $10-$20 each ... Roosters: $5 or less ... Hens 1.5yrs old or older $5-$10 each

Coops:

***Coop for 3 to 5 hens/roosters $100-$250 ... 6-10 hens/roosters $300 to $500 ... 15+ hens/roosters $600+

Some coops come with the run, but runs alone run anywhere from $20-$150 ...its cheaper to build your own coop/run and chickens. Its also cheapest to start with your own chicks and raise them yourself.


Feed:

***25lb bag is about $12-$15 ... it depends where you go, chick starter costs $5

Feeders/Waterers:

***Again, size varies but expect about $10 for the feeder and $15 for the waterer. They will last a very long time.


Others:

***Diatomaceous Earth, you might need this every once in a while, this is how you clean them, but you just put it in their run and they'll bathe themselves.

***Calcium, when your hens lay...for thick shells provide a little extra calcuim, they sell it in bird aisles at feed supply stores.



That's about other than some bedding, its about $9 a bale of straw here or $12 for a bag of pine shavings...Enjoy your chickens if you get them!!
~Whittni

Pine Straw/ Pine Needles For Ground Covering?
If I Use Pine Straw/Needles, How Do You Get The Leaves Out Of Them In The Fall Without Blowing Or Raking All Of Them Away? Is There A Trick To This?

There really is no trick to this, what will happen is over time they will wash away, or get blown away and you will have to refresh them. They do pack down over time and you wont have to do it that often but you will each year want to put a little top dressing down to freshen them up. Also Pine needles will increase the acid level in the soil so make sure you are putting them around plants and trees that like a lower PH otherwise you might be having to make some soil amendments. Good luck!

What Can I Use To Mulch Strawberries

Visit Our Local Pine Straw City for information on delivery and installation

Wadmalaw Island

from
http://pinestrawlandscaping.com/what-can-i-use-to-mulch-strawberries/

Landscaping ideas the complete tutorial for using the program Ideas for Landscaping

Advantages of Long Leaf Pine Needles in your landscaping: It offers the perfect level of acidity for your plants to take in maximum soil nutrients It doesn't float and remove and breaks down more slowly, so it does not require to be reapplied as regularly as other mulches It is much easier to handle and lighter per cubic foot than other mulches: one large bale can cover as much area as 30 cubic feet of most mulches the expense per square foot is competitive with other mulches It breathes better, does not compact, and enables better water infiltration It is simple to apply: simply unroll the bales and scatter by hand It doesn't bring in termites It includes natural material and nutrients to soil and minimizes weeds The consistent color and fine texture of pine straw brings out the color, contrast, and texture of your landscape You can use it for disintegration control where lawn will not grow to hold soil, even on hillsides and paths

Frequently Asked Questions

How To Stop Dog From Chewing Up His Bed?
I Rescued A 1-3 Year Old Lab Mixed Dog From A Neglectful Home. The Family That Had Him Gave Him Little To No Attention As He Outgrew Their Young Child (You Know The Type). He Was Eventually Moved To The Opposite Side Of The House From Where They Came And Went Everyday - And Interactions, Even Visual Site Of Him/Them, Became Even Less. This Dog Was Not Provided Shelter From The Weather As A Puppy. He Was Left Chained To A Tree. His Family Would Run In And Out To The Car In Rain, Sleet Or Snow While He Stood Shivering In The Weather. I Finally Got Them To Accept An Igloo Dog House From Me But... They Had Ruined The Chance Of Him Wanting To Go In It Because They Had Stupidly Put A Trashcan On It'S Side For His Shelter (After I Called Animal Control And They Suggested It). They Did Not Secure It So That It Would Not Roll When He Attempted To Get In It!! And Now After 4 Years Of Having Been Rescued, He May Or May Not Get In His House When It Rains. Another Thing I Noticed When I Got Him Was His Digging!! He Currently Has A Hole Dug That Is 5X7 Feet Wide And 1 Feet Deep; Then Various Other Holes Dug As Well. I Have Provided All Types Of Chews And Toys To Occupy Him But He Prefers To Dig. But The Thing Most Disturbing Is His Endless Chewing! Again, Regardless Of The Toys And Chews That I'Ve Provided... He Still Chews. This Includes A Very Nice Coat That I Put On Him When It Was 18 Degrees One Day. He Chewed It Off!! Then It Was Any And Every Type Of Indoor Dog Bedding That I Have Given Him To Sleep On - Even With Toys And Chews Present!!! It'S So Disheartening. Just Last Night I Gave Them Each (I Have 2 Rescued Dogs) A New Stuffed Pillow Bed To Sleep On In The House. I Got Up This Morning And He Has Chewed Up His! It'S Completely Destroyed! And Tonight He Will Chew Up The Other One; Leaving Both Dogs Without Bedding! Any Advice? Should I Consider A Soft Cage Muzzle On Him When I Go To Bed? That Way He Is Ensured A Nice Warm Bed When He Comes In From The Kennel At Night? Please Advise... Thanks!

Do not muzzle this dog you saw the suffering so why add to it, what does he know about material things he lived tied to a tree for years. You have rescued him from cruelty so retrain him and if he chews the bed does it really matter as you can always buy cheap blankets from a charity shop for him to lie on. He digs so what does that tell you you, it tells me he dug to ease the boredom from his life on a chain.
Live your life around the dog it has suffered enough, it doesn't bite you he's not aggressive just work out what's best for him, he is a dog who needs to get over his trauma this can take years. No way would I have allowed this to happen if I had been that horrible persons neighbour.
Life is hard at times but you are making it worse for yourself, he's a dog not a teenager stop fretting over him.
I ended up with 12 dogs (2 were mine) because they couldn't be sent to live with people who cared more about the new rules rather than listen to what the dogs had suffered.
What I wouldn't like my dogs will not suffer it, I would hate a muzzle on my nose and mouth, so would my pets.
p.s Try Crib Dry on the fabrics it's used to stop horses nibbling at the wood in their stables but it can be sprayed anywhere.

Extremely Important! My Guinea Pig'S Cage Has Wire Floor, What Should I Do? Thanks ?
Pet Experts Said, Guinea Pigs And Other Pets Should Not Be Kept On Cages With Floors Made Of Wire Mesh Or Wire Bars. Guinea Pig'S Feet Are Extremely Sensitive And Delicate And The Wire Floors Will Just Irritate Their Little Feet, Causing A Foot Disease Known As Pododermatitis, Which Is Sometimes But Inappropriately Called &Quot;Bumblefoot&Quot;. Pododermatitis Is Extremely Dangerous And Painful For Guinea Pigs. Guinea Pigs Should Be Kept On A Cage With Solid Floor. Unfortunately, The Pet Stores In Our Place Only Sell Cages With Wire Floor. At First, I Didn'T Know That Cavies (Guinea Pig) Can'T Be Kept On Wires. But Now I Learned About This, So What Should I Do? I Searched About This On The Internet, And I Found Ways. But They Are Not Really Useful! I Covered The Floor With Newspapers. But Soon The Newspapers &Quot;Melted&Quot; And Got Soggy And Soaky Wet And Got Ripped And Torn. So... No Newspapers! So I Replaced The Newspaper With A Towel. But The Towel Soon Got Extremely Dirty! It Was Covered With Layers Of Guinea Pig Feces (Poo), Urine, Plus Fruit And Veggie Toppings, And Bug Civilization Began! So The Cavies Stepped And Slept On The Dirty Stuff All The Time! There'S A Plastic Floor Pan Just Below The Wire Floor. So I Placed The Floor Pan Above The Wire Floor To See If This Is A Good Idea. But Just Like The Towel, The Floor Pan Got Dirty In Just A Few Seconds Because The Feces Have No Where To Go, They Just &Quot;Hang&Quot; Around In There. I Thought Of Buying Bedding, Which Everyone Suggested Me To Do. But Guinea Pigs Should *Only* Use Either Paper Or Hay As Bedding, And Never Wood Shavings Or Sawdust. But Sadly, The Pet Store Only Sells Wood Shavings And They Never Sell Paper Or Hay. What Should I Do? I Really Care About My Guinea Pigs! I Will Be Very Sad If They'Re Not Healthy! Is There Still Hope?

Most wire-bottomed cages have a removable mesh grid. If yours hasn't, could you not get your hands on a wire cutter? Your guinea pigs are NOT safe - as you say, they will get Bumblefoot if you do not get rid of this wire mesh.

I hate to say this, but without hay your guinea pigs are going to rack up huge vet bills, and possibly die. An unlimited amount of hay MUST be fed everyday, so they have 24/7 access to it. Hay makes up about 70% of their diet and CANNOT be substituted with anything else.
Hay:
-Keeps their digestive system moving. Hay is long strand and keeps everything moving as it should do.
-Keeps their teeth ground down. My guinea pig got ill and stopped eating hay so his molars overgrew making eating painful and difficult - I ended up paying the vet £75 for his teeth to be clipped under anaesthetic.
-Gives them that extra bit of vitamin C.

Since you are using a pet store cage, I can bet that it is too small as well. Unless it is 60x110cm (7.5sq ft), then you need to upgrade anyway, rather than worry about the wire grid. If it is large enough, and you cannot remove the grid, try lining it with a sheet or coroplast, lino or something like that to make a smooth surface ready for the bedding.
Why not build a C&C cage? These are attractive, fun and easy to build, practical and easily modified and personalized to suit the room. They are MUCH cheaper than the tiny cages you can get from the pet stores. You construct them from: Coroplast (correx in the UK) which is corrugated plastic, often sold in sign shops. You will also need Cubes - wire shelving grids that can be connected and changed with connectors or cable ties.
Do some more C&C research here: http://www.guineapigcages.com/ and http://www.guineatastic.com/cccages.htm and http://www.guineapigcages.com/forum

Where did you get the idea that guinea pigs can ONLY have paper based beddings and hay? Sure, most wood shavings and other beddings are dangerous, but not all.
Does this pet store sell ASPEN wood shavings that have been dust extracted? If they are pine or cedar, or have not been dust-extracted they are no good. Straw is also a no-no.
Here is a list of great beddings. You may have to drive a little further to obtain these beddings since you refuse to buy online (I really don't see the problem as long as the sites have good ratings).
Carefresh
Megazorb
Yesterday's News
Box-o
Back-2-nature
Vet Bed
Fleece - I would see if you can buy some fleece. It's a great bedding. Line the cage with towels, puppy pads or U-haul pads and follow the instructions on this page: http://www.guineatastic.com/fleecebedding.htm
Auboise
Cell-Sorb
Wood Pellets

If you cannot provide daily fresh hay, quality pellets (NOT mixes) and veggies and a suitable cage and bedding for your guinea pigs, I would really look into re-homing them to someone who can as they'd be much healthier and happier and live much longer lives with someone who can provide those things.

EDIT:
About the Corn Cob bedding, I found some information.
From http://www.guineapigcages.com/bedding.htm

" This bedding is generally not recommended as suitable for guinea pigs.
It molds fairly quickly.
Guinea pigs have been know to eat it. Particles can get stuck on food.
If ingested and the guinea pig drinks water, it swells up and does not break down, creating a potentially serious blockage.
Pieces can get lodged in the genital/anal area causing medical problems. "

How To Make Wood-Chip Mulch?
Every Year My Wife And I Spend A Ton Of Money On That Dark Wood-Chip Mulch. I Would Like To Make My Own. What Are The Ingredients? Do You Shred Newly Cut Wood Or Is Decaying Wood Ok?

Whatever you use make sure its deciduous and not coniferous wood. Conifers (evergreens) do not decompose quickly and make the soil very acidic which can be hard on your garden. Just think of there being NO grass growing under a pine tree where the ground is covered with needles.
For all the work that's involved in getting wood and renting a chipper you're better off buying the mulch.

http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.co...

I Have A New Kitten!!!?
Well I Have A New Kitten And I Want Him To Have The Best Life Lolz Xd And He Is Sooo Cute! He Chews On Its Paw And Stuff Lol But Anyways What Should I Buy Him To Have A Good Life And I Dont Have Alot Of Money So Yea But Like Cheap Toys And Stuff Plezz Thanks Lotsss ***[email protected]@B3***

Congratulations on getting a new kitten!

Well, I am going to list a lot of stuffs here, some you already know but maybe not enough and some you might not know.
New Kitten Checklist:-

Food

(find out what she is eating prior to coming home to you, keep the same food if it is a high quality brand. If you need to change, transition slowly by mixing the old and new food together)

Water

(filtered water would be the best, you can also invest in a water fountain if you like. Petmate and Drinkwell are popular ones)

Food/Water Dish

(Kittens and cat like to eat and drink from shallow bowl. Dog bowls are not suitable because they are deeper and cats do not like to get their whiskers wet or soggy. Stainless steel and ceramic are the best. Avoid double serving dishes - keep a separate dish for food and water)

Grooming Tools

(short haired cats require less grooming than long haired. Invest in good quality clippers, brush, flea comb, wet wipes, and I like to use a chamois cloth to give my kitty's coat a high sheen and glow after grooming. The furminator is also a good tool to help with controlling excessive shedding. Kitten do not need to be bathed unless they get very dirty/messy)

Litter and Litterbox

(She will need at least one litterbox for your kitten. To begin with, choose a smaller one where the sides are lower so she is able to climb in and out easily. Remember, not all cats like a covered litterbox. It is only convenient for the owner.
There are many kinds of litter to choose from and I personally prefer clumping litter made from natural biodegradable ingredients like corn, wheat and pine)

Scratching Post and Play Structures

(This is very important to get for your kitty because you do not want her to learn to scratch your furniture. Scratching is a natural habit and you shouldn't punish er. When you buy a scratching post, make sure it's one that is sturdy and will not tip off easily. All cats love to climb and getting her a nice cat tree of playhouse will allow her to exercise her natural talent without ransacking your house)

Stain and Odor Remover

(Accidents happen so be prepare to clean up after your kitten. You must remove all traces of urine from carpeting because a kitten will urinate on the same spot again if she scent it.)

Carrier

(When you bring your kitten to visit the vet, you will need a carrier. It is important that you choose one that fits the kitten comfortably and she can stand and turn around easily. You can choose hard sided or soft sided carriers and they come is all shapes and design)

Collar and ID Tag

I hope your cat stays indoor. If she is outdoor, a collar and ID Tag is a must. I am not a huge fan of collar for indoor cat because of the possible risk of strangulation and getting stuck in structures. But it is up to you to make that decision. Choose a breakaway collar if you must.

Toys

(Kitten loves to play and make sure you always supervise her playtime. Favorites are jingle bells, mylar balls, feathered toys, dangling toys, lure toys, and I recommend you try Da Bird and Cat Dancer. They go absolutely crazy for them. Some toys you can make at home. Milk Jug Ring is a hit in all cat household, drinking straws, a wad of paper, etc)

Bed

(Just to remind you, you cannot place a kitten on a bed and expect her to sleep there quietly like a newborn baby. Kittens will choose wherever they want to snooze and the place changes all the time. Just make a simple comfortable bedding for her should she choose to sleep in a bed)

This site is very useful in learning more about taking good care of your kitten. Hope you'll visit and get more information from there.

http://cats.about.com/od/kittencare/Kitt...

I hope I've covered it all for you. Good Luck and Best Wishes to you and your kitty!

Can A Dogwood Tree Tolerate The South Texas Elements?
If So, When Is The Best Time To Plant? Thanks!

Dogwoods are picky little trees that can be hard to get established when transplanting. They are native to my part of Texas (East) and they are all over the woods, but I have never had any luck getting a bought one to grow in my yard. They say they like acidic soil (same as azaleas), so they should be heavily mulched with pine bark or pine straw (that's acidic). They are understory trees, which means they typically grow under other larger trees to block out some of the hottest sun. The perfect situation is to put them under pine trees--that way they get the acid soil and the shade. If you don't have any larger trees around your planting site, and it gets no shade from the house or other structures, the tree may not tolerate it.

Look around the area....do you see other ones growing, either native or planted? Do you see any for sale at the nurseries? If you have a hard time finding any, or if they don't seem to be thriving, then your answer is probably no.

If you see some, or if you are determined to try it, get a tree from a nursery or retailer that offers a guarantee, and follow all the instructions for planting. It's best to wait until fall when they go dormant, for South Texas that may be well into Dec. You can go ahead and dig the hole now and be conditioning the soil before the ground gets hard after a freeze. If you can't find a tree locally, be sure to check the growing zone of the one you order to make sure it is rated for your area.

If there is a college or university near you with a horticulture dept., you could also consult them, or talk to someone at your county extension office. They usually have tip sheets on everything or can answer questions over the phone or e-mail.

Landscaping ideas the complete tutorial for using the program Ideas for Landscaping

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North Charleston

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How Much Does A Bale Of Straw Cost

Advantages of Pine Straw in your landscape: It offers the perfect level of acidity for your plants to take in maximum soil nutrients It does not drift and remove and breaks down more slowly, so it doesn't need to be reapplied as frequently as other mulches It is much easier to deal with and lighter per cubic foot than other mulches: one large bale can cover as much area as 30 cubic feet of a lot of mulches the expense per square foot is competitive with other mulches It breathes much better, doesn't compact, and allows for better water seepage It is easy to use: just unroll the bales and scatter by hand It doesn't attract termites It adds natural product and nutrients to soil and minimizes weeds The uniform color and great texture of pine straw highlights the color, contrast, and texture of your landscape You can utilize it for disintegration control where lawn won't grow to hold soil, even on hillsides and paths

FAQ

Questions For Those Who Use Real Christmas Trees...?
What Kind Of Tree Do You Usually Have (Spruce, Cedar, Pine...)? Where Do You Get It? What Stand Do You Use And Where Did You Get It? When Do You Put Your Tree Up And What Do You Do To Keep It Fresh (Aside From Adding Water?)

i like to choose the trees that the needles and branches arent too soft because the branch will bend from the weight of the ornaments and i try not to get a tree that the needles are too sharp either. i dont know the names of the trees i get but it seems to me blue spruce is my fav. to keep the tree fresh longer, you can put an asprin in the water in the tree stand and as far as a tree stand goes, try to choose one w/a large capacity water base and one that has wide legs and is low to the ground. its nice to get potted evergreens and either plant them outdoors later or keep them potted in the home. where i live many places sell live christmas trees including home depot. look for one that doesnt have alot of brown branches and be sure to cut the bottom off so that it can drink up the water easier (many places will do that for you). also you should bring the tree indoors like in the basement overnight and put it in your living area the next day. supposed to last longer if you do that but im not su

I Need To Know If This Is True About My Rabbits Birth?
Well I'm Breeding Netherland Dwarf's And One Of Them Looks Like Their Getting Ready To Give Birth And I Read On The Internet That When A Doe Gets Ready Do Have Her Kit's They Show These Things Tired Eyes, Not Eating Alot ,But Some, And They Also Said Something Like There "You Know What, V Area"(Where The Pee Comes Out) Is Really Swollen And Is Opened Up Kinda Of Wide. So If These Aren't Really True Can You Please Give Me Some Ideas On Knowing When They Are Getting Ready To Give Birth!I!I!I!I!I!

Hi...I've been raising and showing rabbits for 10 years. Those signs are generally correct, but can be very subtle and hard to recognize for sure. A rabbits gestation period (length of time they are pregnant) is about 28-32 days, a day or two before being due she needs a nest box to be put in her cage (she is alone, right?). The kind I've found to be best can be found at Tractor Supply and are metal with a removable wooden floor for cleaning, put about a 2 inch layer of sawdust (pine, not cedar) across the bottom along with a big handful of straw (not hay, hay is what they eat and straw is bedding) in the box and then a couple more handfuls outside the box just in her cage so she can carry more in to build her nest if she wants to. After she builds the nest, she will line it with her fur and then add more to cover the babies after they are born. Does (female rabbits) typically give birth at night and should be in a dark, quiet area so she does not get frightened. After the kits are born, you should pull her out of the cage gently and put her somewhere safe so you can check on the babies. Pull each one out and count them all and remove any dead kits and continue to check on them like this once or twice a day. She should be on a diet of a good quality timothy pellet feed with 17% crude protein (if this is not what she is on then slowly switch her feed over by mixing your current feed and the new one, 1/4 new 3/4 old for a couple days, then 1/2 and 1/2 for a few days etc..) from Tractor Supply or a feed mill near you. Some brands I like are Purina, Heinhold, Showrite, Producer's Pride, and DuMor. They usually come in 25 or 50 lb. bags for $6-$12. A netherland dwarf should be fed about 3/4 a cup until the babies start coming out of the nest box and eating solids, then they should all be free fed. Hope this helps and please feel free to contact me with any other questions you may have (any complications that come up, or about the babies developing, eyes opening, weaning, etc...).

Gardening Tips?
Im A Newbie Gardener And I Would Like To Plant In Front Of My House Where Theres Grass And Bushes. I'Ve Heard That I Have To Overturn The Dirt First, But Are There Any Other Things That I Must Do?

Delamomo posted a bit about what I was going to... basically, laying down newspaper/cardboard is an excellent way to bring up worms and get decomposition going. On top of the cardboard/newspaper you can start laying some browns and greens... whatever you have on hand. I use a layer of peat moss, then compost, then dried chipped leaves, then manure, then straw as a top layer of mulch. Or you could use pine needles or wood chips as a top layer, whatever works for you. It's basically a layering system called lasagna gardening and is very healthy for your garden. Everything breaks down nicely and you just need to make sure you continue to add layers. If it's a vegetable garden, I would continue throwing on dried grass clippings and straw as a mulch, and then mulch again in the fall with another couple of layers. It prevents you from having to do any tilling, digging, or weeding (except for the occasional one that sneaks through) and it's really less work once you get the lasagna bed established and going. And you can let it 'cook' for a few weeks before planting, or you can plant right away. That's what I love about it! Goodluck!

http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf582744.tip.h...

This Is The Last Straw With These Dang Flies!?
I Feel Like I Have Tried Everything And Not One Product I'Ve Found Is Working For Me. There Are Two Things Left On My To-Use List -- Endure And Fly Predators -- But Is It Even Worth Trying These? :/ 50Ml Of Avc With My Mare'S Grain Works Well For Her, She Only Has A Few Stable Flies And That'S Not Such A Huge Concern. Deer And Horse Flies Are Eating My Yearlings Alive, However. I Doused Both Boys In 1/4 A Bottle Of $14 Ultrashield One Day And That Junk Came Off By Noon. Not A Light Spraying, A Real Good Covering. It Just Did Not Last. Bronco Is Such Crap It Doesn'T Even Need To Be Mentioned Getting Used. 45% Permethrin Spot-On (Freedom/Celebration), Doesn'T Work. It Did Work For One Whole Day After I Applied It, The Next Day The Boys Were Sweating Profusely And It Just Stopped Working. :/ One Gets A Feed Through Supplement, Bugcheck And Avc, Doesn'T Work. Tried Feeding Garlic, Didn'T Work Either, And I Didn'T Want To Do That For A Very Long Time Due To The Risk Of Anemia. Sprayed Him With Garlic And Vinegar, Didn'T Even Phase The Flies The Moment It Was On Their Hair. So. What Next. :[

What about a light-coloured fly sheet and fly mask? Of course, they are still growing... Have you tried absorbine? What about Wipe?

-James- Water has actually been proven a myth... actually saw it on mythbusters!

You can actually get fly boots for their legs. Never tried them myself, but here's a link:
http://www.doversaddlery.com/product.asp...
They are pretty inexpensive, so they might be worth trying. How hot are your summers? I would recommend a mesh sheet like this, to keep them cool:
http://www.doversaddlery.com/product.asp...
Get white. Flies are attracted to dark colours.
Here are some homemade fly spray recipes:
http://www.moniteausaddleclub.com/flyspr...
I wouldn't recommend any with Pine Sol, however.

How To Identify Young Confier Seedlings?
I'Ve Got Quite A Few Young Confer Seedlings The Sequoia Have Four Needles The Pine Have Ten Needles What Are The Genus Of The Seedlings With 6 And 7 Needles? Larch Or Fir Perhaps?

Tyler is right, Durango Pine. Pinus durangensis. Gets it's name from Durango Mexico where it is mostly found. It is the only 6/7 needle pine. There are many 5 needle pine and even more 2/3 needle pines.

Pines are the only conifers (I can think of) that come with these multi needle bundles......the holders at the base are called fascicles.

How Much Does A Bale Of Straw Cost

Visit Our Local Pine Straw Location for information on installation and delivery

Awendaw

from
http://pinestrawlandscaping.com/how-much-does-a-bale-of-straw-cost-2/

How Far Apart Do You Plant Cucumbers

Advantages of Long Leaf Pine Straw in your landscape: It supplies the ideal level of acidity for your plants to absorb optimum soil nutrients It doesn't float and get rid of and breaks down more gradually, so it does not have to be reapplied as frequently as other mulches It is easier to manage and lighter per cubic foot than other mulches: one big bale can cover as much area as 30 cubic feet of many mulches the expense per square foot is competitive with other mulches It breathes better, does not compact, and enables much better water infiltration It is easy to use: simply unroll the bales and scatter by hand It doesn't attract termites It adds organic material and nutrients to soil and decreases weeds The consistent color and great texture of pine straw brings out the color, contrast, and texture of your landscape You can use it for erosion control where grass will not grow to hold soil, even on hillsides and paths

Frequently Asked Questions

Does Pine Wood Shavings Attract Snakes??!?
So I Have Rabbits Nd I Keep Them Outside In This Shelter Type Thing With A Little Gate Made Out Of Chicken Wire On The Front.I Usually Have Straw Covering The Concrete Floor.But My Parents Don'T Allow Me To Keep Any Type Of Straw Or Hay On Th Floor During The Summer Because It Attracts Snakes.But I Like To Have Some Covering The Concrete Floor Because It'S Less Of A Mess.Can I Lay A Thin Layer Of Pine Wood Shaving On The Floor??Will It Attract Snakes.?Please Help Me!?!

Pine is toxic to snakes and to rabbits as well(I would believe). I don't see how hay would attract snakes..

Is It Safe To Use Straw For Guinea Pigs' Bedding?
I Can'T Find Aspen, Pine, Corn-Cob, Or Wood Pellet Bedding Around My Area. The Only Three Options It Seems Like Are Straw, Cedar, And Fleece Blankets. My Mom Won'T Let Me Use Fleece, Because She Says It Would Be Too Hard To Vacuum Every Day, And I Would Never Put An Animal Through Torture Of Using Cedar Shavings. If Straw Isn'T Safe, Can You Suggest Anything Else?

It really upsets me to see people get guinea pigs that have no way or knowledge to take care of them. They take a lot of special care and feeding to keep them healthy.. Mine are over 6 years old. Wood pellets, or corn cob will cause damage to their feet. The webs will tell you how to care for you piggie. Wal-Mart, K-mart, farm supply stores, pet stores have Aspen or Care Fresh bedding. Ceder is poisonous to rodents. I have to make a 60 mile round trip to get aspen bedding for my piggies.

I suggest you study the webs below to properly care for your piggie.

How Far Apart Do You Plant Cucumbers

Visit Our Local Pine Straw City for information on installation and delivery

Johns Island

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Tropical Landscaping ideas

Advantages of Pine Straw in your landscape: It provides the ideal level of acidity for your plants to soak up optimum soil nutrients It does not float and remove and breaks down more gradually, so it does not need to be reapplied as often as other mulches It is simpler to manage and lighter per cubic foot than other mulches: one large bale can cover as much area as 30 cubic feet of the majority of mulches the expense per square foot is competitive with other mulches It breathes better, doesn't compact, and enables much better water seepage It is simple to apply: just unroll the bales and scatter by hand It doesn't draw in termites It adds natural product and nutrients to soil and decreases weeds The consistent color and fine texture of pine straw draws out the color, contrast, and texture of your landscape You can utilize it for disintegration control where yard won't grow to hold soil, even on hillsides and courses

Frequently Asked Questions

Hay/Straw Or Pine Chips For Chickens?
I'M Getting Some Chicks In A Week And I Was Wondering What Is Better For The Bottom Of The Brooder. Straw, Hay Or Pine Chips. Also I Was At The Pet Store And Saw Alfalfa Cubes For Rabbits. Are They Good For Chicks/Chickens Too And How Do You Feed It To Them

Actually, for newborn chicks, paper towels or newspaper is best, until they learn to identify their feed bowl. Otherwise, they have a tendency to eat the pine chips, which blocks their system and can cause death. We only switch to pine after 2 weeks. Straw is more appropriate for full-grown chicks, and provides better evaporation (or run-off) of their droppings and moisture, which helps to prevent breast blisters (for meat birds) and various foot fungus. Alfalfa is fine for chickens, and actually can be provided by using hay rather than straw for bedding. The best supplemental food for them is fresh greens - lettuce, kale, collard, etc.

What Do You Do That Makes You A Crazy Twilight Fan?
I Just Listen To It On Tape 24-7 And Have Giant Pics In My Room Oh Ya And Kiss The Ground My Teach Walked On After She Came Home From Forks She Brought Me A Piece Of Pine Straw And No One Can Touch It

I am a huge Twilight fan. Let me count the random things I do daily:

You know you're a Twilight freak when...

You own all four books and keep them in a glass case on your dresser.
You own the movie and have already pre-ordered New Moon.
You have read each book at least 100 times each.
You throw sparkles on your boyfriend to try adn make him sparkle.
You yell at the kid named Edward at your school because he's not Edward Cullen.
You were day dreaming during class and when the teacher calls on you, you look up and say "Edward Cullen?!"
Your family and friends who have not read the books or seen the movies know almost everythign about Twilight because you talk about it so much.
You added the names Pattinson, Digery and Stephenie to the Diction on Microsoft Word.
You see a box labeled Forks at a restaurant and look inside, thinking there's somethign imported from Forks, Washington in there.
You Volvo hunt every time you're in a car.
You scream every time you spot a silver Volvo.
You got your dad to buy you an old used red 1953 Chevy pick up truck.
You can recite pages and pages of the books by hear.
You find yourself saying the dialogue from the movie along with the actors in Twilight and New Moon and can't seem to stop, even though it's getting on everyone's nerves.
You stay up all night reading the books.
You now look like a vampire from lack of sleep (see above).
You giggled every time you use a fork.
You sat on Santa's lap and asked for Edward Cullen for Christmas... Santa actually laughed at me!
You watch Harry Potter 4 and 5 just to see Robert Pattinson.
You fall to your feet in front of your cardboard cut out of Jacob Black (Yep, that's right, I have a cardboard cutout of Taylor Lautner; I'm just that cool!).
You really don't like the actors in the Twilight movie; but yell at people when they say they are ugly.
You cried during New Moon.
You build the Cullen's house out of lego.
You screamed at the book when you were reading New Moon, because Edward hadn't come back yet.
You are having a bad day and wish Jasper were there to calm you down.
You buy Fresia perfume in hopes that Edward will call you his "La tua contante."
You where blue in hopes of attracting Edward.
You are sooo glad you're a brunette and if you're not one, you've already made an appointment at the hair salon.
You are afraid that the Volturi will come looking for you because you know much about vampires from the books.
You keep your window open at night even though it's freezing out, in hopes that Edward will climb through.
You try to read people's minds.
You have Edward vs Jacob debates with your friends daily.
You cry when you realize you can't sparkle in the sun.
You don't suntan anymore.
You wear glitter to school.
You started listening to Muse.
You talk like you're from the 20th century, using words like 'absurd.'
You love private meadows.
You hear a dog in the distance and think of Jacob.
You freak if someone accidentally quotes the books or movies.
You'll suddenly burst out laughing because you were thinking about something funny in the saga and now people are giving you weird looks.
Withering Heights is now your must-read book.
You're considering changing your last name to Cullen.
You hate anyone named Tanya for no apparent reason.
When someone insults you, your comeback is "Oh, go imprint yourself!"
You purposefully hurt yourself so that you can go to the hospital and throw a tantrum when Carlisle isn't even there to examine you.
You know a stake won't kill a vampire, so you carry a lighter around with you, just in case.
You have a sudden interest in weight lifting, in hopes that you can beat Emmett in an arm-wrestling contest.
You were a little disappointed in the movie, compared to the book.
When playing a game of dice, you say "I'm betting on Alice" every time you roll.
You accuse the hottest guy in school of being a vampire. (Now he's my boyfriend. lol jk)
You went to see the movie and stole the big pop out advertisement.
It causes you actual physical pain to be away from the books.
Your parents took the books away when you became too obsessed. Now your in pain (see above).
You have been diagnosed with O.C.D. (Obsessive Cullen Disorder), the disease in which the mind becomes consumed in the thoughts of sparkling fictional characters. The only cure is the meeting of one Edward Cullen.
You dream about fictional characters.
You check the weather in Forks, even though you live no where near it.
You take it as a personal offense when someone doesn't read the books

Well, there's my list. I have honestly done most of these. I am a total ex-Harry Potter freak and I've only just gotten out of my Twilight phase.

Hope you enjoyed my list.

Why Isn'T My Car Accelerating Very Well Anymore?
I Just Got My License About 3 Months Ago....Okay So About 3-4 Days Ago I Accidentally Let Go Of The Gas, And It Hit A Stone Wall, Not At A Fast Speed, The Speed When Your Foot Is Not On The Gas Or Break. The Only Thing I Think I Damaged Was The Water Panel Under The Engine( My Dad Fixed). Infront Of The Wall There Was One Of Those Flimsy Pine Needle Trees You Plant, And A Branch Got Caught Under The Car, I Don'T Know Where, My Dad Found It, And Removed It. Now 4 Days After My Accident, When I Drive My Car And Want To Accelerate After Being Stopped, It Takes A Long Time To Accelerate, And Then Once I Do, I Am All Of A Sudden Going Almost 40Mph...There Was A Little Problem Like This Before My Accident, But Not This Bad. Anways, My Car Has Seemed Fine Until Today, Could It Be From My Accident Even Though It Was Fine For 2 Days After It, Or Is It Something Else? Sorry For Not Being Specific, If It Helps, I Drive A 95 Bmw 325Is Automatic Thanks!

as silly as it might sound, i'd honestly check the exhaust pipe under the car front to back.
Make sure that the exhaust pipe isn't pushed in, damaged, or kinked. If it is, it could certainly cause this, especially as you hit under the car as well.
this would require that bit of pipe to be replaced and/or repaired.

other than that, as long as you don't have a check engine lamp on, i'd doubt there's anything seriously damaged under the hood.

Maybe its accelerating in second gear startign off... as you says its an automatic... maybe the trans. pan got dented in, or the linkage damaged?? startign off in second gear and not first would create this feelign for you.

Plants That Grow Well In Shaded Pine Tree Forests?
We Have A Large Stand Of Tall Pine Tree'S (3 Acres) And Nothing But Dead Pine Needles Lays On The Forest Floor. Nothing But A Few Spots Of Some Kind Of Grass Grows Where The Sun Gets In. I'D Like To Know If There Are Plants That Would Enjoy This Envioronment. I Believe The Mulch Of The Pine Needles And Possibly The Acidity Of These Keeps The Forest Floor In There Bare. Any Suggestions???

Azaleas, they love the acid in the soil. I have them planted all around my pine trees and they are beautiful

How Much For Landscaping???
I Am A 17 Year Old In West Virginia And I Have A Lawncare Service In My Neighborhood Which Has 159 Houses And And I Have Worked For Around 40 Of Them. I Have A Very Good Reputation And A Question??? I Recently Got A Call To Mow Grass And They Are Giving $30/$50 A Week ($50 Every Other Week To Mow Bank) And They Want Me To Landscape A Flower Bed Which Includes Taking Up 4 Old Shrubs That Are Small To Medium Size And Laying Down Cloth And Putting New Shrubs In And Mulching...The Size Of The Bed Is Around 3-4 Feet Wide And 10-12 Feet Long...The Materials Will Cost Me $60 To $75 Dollars And Probably A Days Works...So How Much Should I Charge Them For Labor And Materials??? ( It Takes Me About 20 Minutes For The Grass And 30 Minutes For The Grass And The Bank. Thank You!!!

Hi:
I am a landscape and designer. Congratulations on doing a great job and having your lawn clients trust you. Client satisfaction is the number one priority.

What you need to take into account is your labor time, which includes removal of the four shrubs. Make sure you get the mother of tap root when you remove the shrubs. Your prep of the flower bed, planting and any mulch or pine straw to put down. It is hard to pin point a fair price, but one thing you can do is either charge by the hour, which $25.00 to $30.00 an hour is inexpensive in the landscape field. You can also charge by the entire job. Give them a fixed rate for a day rate. This will be up to you.

If you want to grow and gain more clients in your neighborhood, give them a fair price and you have already gained trust of 40 of them, and your number could be growing. If you need some more information, I would be happy to help you. Just contact me at my website.

I will link you to the site map, as this page has everything that is on the site. Browse through and see if you can find some information that may be helpful to you. I will also link you to the comment section, so you if you have further questions, please feel free to ask. Good luck to you and have a great day!

Kimberly

http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...

http://www.landscape-solutions-for-you.c...

Tropical Landscaping ideas

Visit Our Local Pine Straw Location for information on installation

Summerville

from
http://pinestrawlandscaping.com/tropical-landscaping-ideas-2/

Biomass briquettes in India | Global Ideas

Benefits of Long Leaf Pine Needles in your landscape: It provides the best level of level of acidity for your plants to absorb optimum soil nutrients It does not float and wash away and breaks down more slowly, so it doesn't require to be reapplied as frequently as other mulches It is easier to handle and lighter per cubic foot than other mulches: one big bale can cover as much area as 30 cubic feet of the majority of mulches the cost per square foot is competitive with other mulches It breathes much better, does not compact, and permits better water seepage It is easy to use: just unroll the bales and scatter by hand It does not draw in termites It includes organic product and nutrients to soil and reduces weeds The consistent color and great texture of pine straw draws out the color, contrast, and texture of your landscape You can utilize it for disintegration control where yard won't grow to hold soil, even on hillsides and courses

FAQ

How To Make An Artificial Crow Nest?

You will have to find a craft store that carries many fake branches or leaves etc etc with the items I give you it may be easy to find and make what you want.
Crows nest consist of Many thing such as,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
small twigs,straw/hay,animal hairs,small soft bark,grasses green and brown,pine needles.
The nest size is about 6-19 inches across and 6-14 inches for the inner cup area, and 4-15 inches deep.
Could take some fake leaves grind up to make for a mash to hold all the twigs together and pieces of bark as the outside for support and pine needles for the comfort zone , (inside) Your project Good Luck sounds like fun

What Is An Eco Friendly Home Environment?
Looking For Detailed Information Particularly With Reference To India. Links To Web Sites Giving Details Are Welcome

Do you mean growing your own food ,supplying your own Energy and using your own wastes and by products in a positive manner ??
if yoiu do here is an extensive answer
and the philosiphy wich teaches that with drawings examples and relevant facts is called Permaculture.Also check out on the Internet EARTHSHIPS buiding eco friendly homes from wast material ,and check the link straw revolution.

ORGANIC VEGETABLES

At home you can grow vegetables intensively and quite cheaply using your own wastes and by products and plantig for mulch

MULCH

The best in the world is the manure that comes from earth worms,if you mulch your garden you will get worms automatically

All manure is good to add ,cow,rabbit, and horse is the mildest and you can put it on directly.
Chicken is more acidy and is best to mix with saw dust or earth ,

You cannot put too much manure in your garden,it will just get richer and richer,

But to prevent smell mix it well with the ground or with something else before you put it on, like sand or earth or sawdust

Uric acid or nitrogen is good ,this is animal urine,
Farmers now put gutters in their stables to collect it and put it on the land especially for the grassy type species.

Cut down the weeds before they produce seeds and leave them where they fall,they will cover the ground and put even more organic matter on top,

You can use saw dust,leaves green or dry,and when you plant make a little space and plant in the mulch.this is the easiest quickest and by far most benificial way,for the quality of you soil.

To prevent weeds from coming all you have to do it turn out the lights,you can even use cardboard or black plastic(this is good for strawberries because they will rot if they touch humid ground,and the bugs can get to them).

What you do is to cover the ground with mulch which is the same principal as compost but it includes the whole garden surface

The top part of the soil where the topsoil is being produced houses a world or microbiotic life.

Mulch is organic material green or dry that covers the ground,the thicker the better the composting process will turn it in to black topsoil

The humidity is preserved underneath and promotes the devellopment of worms(their exists no better compost than their excrements)and a variety of micro biotic life which together with the mulch produce more topsoil.

The mulch also keeps the ground temperature even and guards against the impact of the rain ,which would other wise brings salt to the surfave if on unprotected land

Mulch also prevents the soil from drying out because of the sun and, lay it open to wind erosian.

do not use chemicals because the water will wash them into the ground and if enough people did that, you would be guilty of helping to contaminate subteranean water suplies that other people could be pumping up to drink

COMPOST
make a compost heap to accomodate al the organic rubbish that you end up with ,both from the garden and the house,all organic material is good for compost,eggshells,wood,
paper,bones,leaves,pine needles
sawdust,old clothes ,the dead cat,toilet paper
etc.

70 %of contamination comes from organic wastes that are mixed with the plastics etc.

HOW
Dig a shallow hole ,bowel shaped about 2 or 3 square meters ,have it in a shady place,like under a tree or built a little roof.

Keep the compost moist,have it near a sprinkler or regularly wet it with a garden hose ,dont saturate with water because the worms will leave
or die.

You can add a little lime at times,cover it with leaves or plastic to keep the moisture in.

We add red earth worms(californiana)which are surface eaters,the more worms, the quicker the decomposition and the richer the compost.

ORGANIC PESTCONTROL

IN AFRICA we had camelions in the kitchen to keep down the flies

In Mexico we got a sort of small lizard that lives on the wall ,and sit near the lamps ,and eat mosquitos all night,

In the mango orchards we release laboratory bred wasps to attack and kill the caterpillars that go for the mangos

There are small chickens, called a silky or bantom or chaparito which are all small chickens that do not scratch ,but run after ,jumping and walking insects,they take care of about 70 percent of all garden pests.

Feasants,guinyfowel,partridge will do the same work
Iguanas kill grashoppers and all kinds of flying insects

Birds we also dont kill
when the passion fruit is ripe ,a little black caterpiller comes and wants to destroy them,luckely a little finch type bird turns up and eats the black caterpillars.

In Mexico we have let mazacoas,which are, python type snakes in to the garden to take care of the rats.

In Africa we released mole snakes into the garden and field to combat the plagues of Norwegian rats that were destroying the fields

Ant eaters and armadillos take care of leafcutting ants that can destroy a large tree in a week.and eat beatles and such

Potbelly pigs and deer and normal pigs are good in an orchard because they eat fallen rotting fruit which breeds a lot of small flies.

In our water reservoirs we put fish to eat the mosquito larvas.

Ihave bred tree frogs from eggs and released them in the garden to eat mosquitos and horse flies.

You can keep a barrel of water and throw in everybodies sigarette buts
this can be used for getting rid of ants

A mixture of green liquid soap with garlic and terpentine also gets rid of a lot of leaf eating pests

Lavendal is good for moulds
and there is a great variety of weeds that acts as pest repellents when ground up (such as Khki boss in South africa )

Marigolds and similar looking flowers around vegetable keep bugs a way

So does garlic ,mint ,spring onions ,oregano ,thyme
when planted near Tomatoes

WATERHARVESTING

In Permaculture the rule is to harvest rain water to the point of Zero runoff.

This means that all of the rain that falls on an area is absorbed by the terrain and not a drop leaves it.

By building dams,ponds or swales, with interconecting ditches,
If there are enough of these ;the places ,where before the rain water ran over the ground into the rivers and on to the sea ,(in a matter of hours or days),

It now runs into absorbant dams or swales and saturates the ground and eventually reaches subteranean water deposits ,taking many months to do so.
Or it fills up ponds that can be used for Aquaculture.

And so a convex situation that repels water is transformed in a concave ,absorbant one and turning the area in to a sponge.

In Spain and Portugal ,which still display many examples of the conquering Moorish influence,One can find many remnants of Waterharvesting,such as aquaducts and tanks underneath the patios ,which collect the rain water from the roofs ,to be used in dryer times.

In Arabia ,on a large scale ,land has been shaped to catch and lead,rain water into sandy areas or to agricultural lands.sand is almost as good as dams because it absorbs water and holds it.(swales)

EFFICIENT WATER USE

IN THE HOUSE
one can connect the sink straight to the toilet sistern and so use the water twice ,first to have a shave and then to flush the toilet
also if you bend the ball valve you can regulate the level of the sistern

and always have your grey water and black water seperate
so that the sink and shower water goes directly into the garden saving on irregation and at the same time ,making the sewage smaller and easier to deal with ,this also goes and iregates the garden but via a sitern of two compartments and a french drain ,on which you plant trees,

PERMACULTURE

Permaculture means permanent agriculture
a concept put forward by Bill Mollisson in the 60`s
which is a complete hand book for environmental design.

With practical solutions for energy systems ,infratructure ,housing,
animal shelter ,water systems and sustainable agricultural practises.
With the world and it`s history as it`s source
From the chinampas of Mexico to the teraced gardens of the Andes.
From the dessert whadis to the steppes of Russia.
Covering all climatic conditions temporal, dessert, humid and dry tropics.
with chapters on soil ,Water harvesting and land design,
Earth working ,Spirals in nature,Trees and water ,utilising energy flows,
Strategy for an alternative nation

this book also has many gardening tips,bio-gas,companion planting and ideas for structures ,how to cool down houses in hot climates ,how to warm up houses in cold climates with out using technology but rather by design.

The Permaculture designers manual by Bill Mollison,which cost about 40 dollars.
and is the best all round book you can get,on Environmental design,.(tagiari publishing, [email protected])

Some other writers that are on the internet are
david Holmgren
Larry Santoyo
Kirk Hanson

Masanobu Fukuaka has written ,
One-Straw Revolution
The Road Back to Nature
The Natural Way of Farming
http://www.context.org/iclib/ic14/fukuok...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/masanobu_fu...

Simon Henderson
and Bill Molisson.

a representitive of the concept in USA is
Dan Hemenway at [email protected]
[email protected]
http://barkingfrogspc.tripod.com/frames....
http://csf.colorado.edu/perma/ypc_catalo... Source(s) Until recently I was a permaculture consultant for the department of Ecology for the regional government of Guerrero in Mexico

rbyderule yahoo 360, which has some stuff in English as well as this spaces

http://spaces.msn.com/byderule

How Much Water Do I Give A Japanese White Pine(Bonsai Tree) And How Often?
Please Only Answer If You Know What You Are Talking About I Really Don'T Want Kill My Bonsai Tree. Thank You

Pines are difficult bonsai subjects in that they display few symptoms of distress. By the time most people notice somwthing is wrong, it is already too late to save the tree. Overwatering and insufficient light are the two most probable causes of pine Bonsai problems.

Look closely for slight yellowing of needles, a sign of insufficient sunlight. Brown needle tips can mean too much water.

Keep the plant outside in sunlight when conditions permit, in a south facing windowsill other times. When outside monitor soil moisture closely.

Water when the pot feels light or the subsurface soil feels dry. Stick your finger in the soil. Immerse the entire pot in room-temperature water once every week or ten days.

Do not fertilize. Decomposition of the bonsai compost will provide sufficient nutrition (provided you're using soil specifically formulated for bonsai).

I Have Rooted Some Blueberry Shoots. Do I Set Them Out Now Or Wait Till Spring?
I Cut And Rooted Quite A Few Blueberries From Soft Wood Cuttings In Late Summer. I Have Them In Pots Right Now Behind My Barn In A Protected Area. The Leaves Have All Fallen Off, But It'S Easy To Tell The Ones That Did Root. The Stalks Are Green And Buds For Next Year'S Growth Have Formed. My Question Is, Really Cold Weather Is Nearing. Do I Set Them Out Now In The Place They Will Be, Or Do I Need To Overwinter Them Somehow In A Protected Place? If So, How Much Protection Will They Need? We Are In A Zone 6 Area With Winter Temps Sometimes Reaching The Teens. Thanks For Any Info!

I recommend waiting until spring to plant them. Keep them protected during the winter as well as you can and don't forget to give them a little water during the winter. It shouldn't take much since they are dormant but you don't want the roots to dry out and die.
In the mean time, prepare the area they will be planted in. If your soil isn't acidic now would be a good time to add peat moss, coffee grounds and pine straw. Incorporate them into the top 1 foot or so of soil. The pine straw will begin breaking down during the winter and release its acid into the soil. The peat moss will take quite a while to break down, often several years, and releases its contribution more slowly. The coffee grounds seem to be the first part that decomposes and add a quick burst of acid, but it doesn't last long. Add more at planting time and a handful or so every couple of weeks during the growing season. Add a little fertilizer (about 1/2 pound or so) to each planting hole. You can add another 1/2 pound at planting time, but don't overdo it; blueberries don't need much fertilizer if planted in well-conditioned soil. You can also substitute rabbit manure for the fertilizer; it will provide all they need and will not burn them. It also doesn't have to be composted prior to use so it saves a lot of time and effort on your part.

Good luck and enjoy!

How Do You Start A Compost Pile And What Do You Do With It?
I Want To Do More Than Recycle So Im Wanting Ta Start A Compost Pile. Do They Smell? What Goes In One And What Do You Do With The Stuff Once Its Filled Up?

The basics are simple but it is a bit of an art to get one to heat fast and finish quickly. However there is evidence that a slow pile produces more humus, which is the goal.
The pile is effectively built out of two elements, carbon- C and nitrogen -N. It is the balance between these two in the presence of invertebrates, fungi, and bacteria that allows an exothermic reaction to occur and produce the final decomposition.
Yard and kitchen scraps are layered with manures or dirt to achieve a ratio that is close to 30:1 C:N. Ideally one uses a thermometer with readings from 0 degrees to 200 degrees F and is long enough to read well into the pile to determine when to turn the pile. If you have layered the carbon to nitrogen to the ideal 30:1 the pile will shortly begin to heat up. There will be a steady rise in temperature for a day or two. Normally the pile will continue to rise until it reaches 120 to 149 degrees F, at which point it may suddenly stop rising. Keep on monitoring the temperature. If it stays up, fine. If it drops, turn again. Once it no longer rises in temp after being turned it is complete. Note this is predicated on being able to balance the carbon or 'browns' to the nitrogen or 'greens'. Also the particle sizes being added matter. If possible all material should be run through a chipper to mix and reduce the size. This makes turning much easier, too.

http://www.compostguide.com/ C:N ratios

Green ingredients (grass clippings, weeds, kitchen scraps, coffee grounds, seeds, soft green prunings, seaweed, animal manure (sheep, poultry, horse, rabbit & cow))

Brown ingredients (dead leaves, straw, hay, wood shavings or chips, egg cartons, newspaper)

Particle size also affects the availability of carbon and nitrogen. Large wood chips, for example, provide a good bulking agent that helps to ensure aeration through the pile, but they provide less available carbon per mass than they would in the form of wood shavings or sawdust. To much carbon prevents the pile from heating.

As to smells, that is the best method of managing a pile if you do not use a thermometer. If it smells fresh like turned soil it is working properly.
If you get it to wet it will begin to decompose anaerobically and produce hydrogen sulfide, the rotten egg smell. The best thing is to turn it and get air in.
If the pile has an ammonia odor, you have too much green material (grass clippings, food scraps, green plant material) and not enough brown (dry leaves, woody prunings, pine needles, dried out plants, saw dust). Add more brown material or a shovel of soil and turn it.
If you see ants then the pile must be to dry. Everything should be moist but there should be nothing dripping. If you piled it to dry, its own heat dried it or the summer did then you must turn it rewetting the layers as you go.
If it just sits there and wont heat up you have to many browns. To much carbon prevents the pile from heating. Go to a coffee shop and get some coffee grounds, any grain, seed or meal is a good source of nitrogen. Add some grass clippings in thin layers or get a neighbor to donate kitchen scraps.

Use compost as a mulch or top dressing. Work it into new beds and amend holes dug for new plants. Mix it with vermiculite and sand to make your own potting mix. Last, make compost tea. http://www.simplici-tea.com/
The reason we need to add organics to soil is to create humus. Good soil is equal parts sand, silt, & clay. These give soil its texture and are about 95% of soil. Organics give it structure and should be 5-7%. How the soil aggregates or forms crumbs affects how air and water move through the soil. The organic portion of the soil determines this. Basically it is almost impossible to add to much compost to existing soil.

During the early stages of the composting process, flies provide ideal airborne transportation for bacteria on their way to the pile. Flies spend their larval phase in compost as maggots, which do not survive thermophilic temperatures the bacteria and fungi digestion creates . Adult flies feed upon organic vegetation. If flies become a problem cover food scraps with a little soil from the garden.
In small-scale backyard compost piles, soil invertebrates aid the decomposition process. Together with bacteria, fungi, and other microbes, these organisms make up a complex food web or energy pyramid with primary, secondary, and tertiary level consumers. The base of the pyramid, or energy source, is made up of your organic matter including plant and animal residues.

Meat and dairy products are high in fat. They can cause an unpleasant odor if added to a passive pile or poorly-managed active compost pile. For a hot, well-turned compost pile, meat and dairy wastes are not a problem. However, it is better to run the wastes through a blender or food processor to reduce their size and speed their decomposition.
Fat, oil, & grease, known as FOG, can be added at 1% of the compost’s mass.
'An application rate, limited to a concentration of fat at 1% of the soil mass was reported as being the most desirable rate in that no negative effects were observed.'
Fat, oil, and grease have a high C/N ratio (90:1), if applied to compost they may affect the availability of N, due to N immobilization during its decomposition by nitrifying bacteria. The same is true of any high carbon ingredient like wood chips. Particle size also affects the availability of carbon and nitrogen. Large wood chips, for example, provide a good bulking agent that helps to ensure aeration through the pile, but they provide less available carbon per mass than they would in the form of wood shavings or sawdust. To much carbon prevents the pile from heating.
http://www.compostguide.com/ C:N ratios
What should never be added are;
Feces either from your pet or human - They carry diseases and parasites, as well as cause an unpleasant odor
Diseased garden plants - They can infect the compost pile and influence the finished product.
Invasive weeds - Spores and seeds of invasive weeds (buttercups, morning glory, quack grass) can survive the decomposition process and spread to your desired plants when you use the finished compost.
Wood ashes - highly alkaline (high pH), and rich in potassium salts so it is good for sandy, acidic soils (low pH). However, the fine particle size of ash tends to plug the pores of clay soils leading to water penetration and drainage problems.
Glossy, colored paper - The inks are toxic to the soil microorganisms.
Pesticide-treated plant material - These are harmful to the compost foodweb organisms, and pesticides may survive into the finished compost..
Eucalyptus leaves and bark - allelopathic effects impact nutrient cycling and prevents some seed germination
Treated lumber - Will not break down.
Poison Ivy - It is a potent source of urushiol even after a year and a half (to sensitive individuals).
Walnut shells - Juglone, a naturally occurring chemical released by all parts of black walnut trees, can have a toxic effect on many vegetables and landscape plants.
Slugs and snails generally feed on living plant material but will attack fresh garbage and plant debris and will therefore appear in the compost heap. (Better there where you can find and kill them than in the garden. I dump them in soapy water til dead then compost them. Soap is a phosphorus source.)

http://www.primalseeds.org/compost.htm...
http://compost.css.cornell.edu/compostin...
http://ohioline.osu.edu/com-fact/0001.ht...

The compost should have many kinds of worms, including earthworms, nematodes, red worms and potworms. They will invade the pile from the soil or through drain holes if you have an enclosed bin.
Besides worms you will see many other creatures like sow bugs or springtails. All the creatures that move in are there because they like dead stuff. Bugs, big and little, are what make the decomposition happen.

Biomass briquettes in India | Global Ideas

Visit Our Local Pine Straw City for information on delivery & installation

Charleston

from
http://pinestrawlandscaping.com/biomass-briquettes-in-india-global-ideas/