Monday, October 30, 2017

11 Landscaping ideas for small front yards

Advantages of Long Leaf Pine Straw in your landscape: It supplies the perfect level of level of acidity for your plants to absorb maximum soil nutrients It doesn't float and get rid of and breaks down more slowly, so it doesn't need to be reapplied as frequently as other mulches It is much easier to handle and lighter per cubic foot than other mulches: one large bale can cover as much location as 30 cubic feet of most mulches the cost per square foot is competitive with other mulches It breathes much better, does not compact, and enables better water infiltration It is simple to use: simply unroll the bales and scatter by hand It doesn't bring in termites It adds organic product and nutrients to soil and lowers weeds The consistent color and great texture of pine straw brings out the color, contrast, and texture of your landscape You can use it for disintegration control where lawn will not grow to hold soil, even on hillsides and courses

FAQ

Ants Are Invading My House... Any Tips Or Solutions?
My Husband And I Live In Central Fl. We'Ve Been Having Thousands Of Ants In Our House. I Clean The House Twice A Week, And I Don'T Leave Any Food Around. We Live In A Mobile Home, And I Have A Feeling That The Problem Started After We Put Pine Straw Around The Front Of The House. Could That Be The Problem? If So, I Want To Clean That Up Completely... And I Was Wondering What Kind Of Product We Could Use To Spray Around Our House. We Have 2 Dogs, And I Didn'T Want Anything To Poison Them. Also, What Can You Suggest For Covering The Area Around The House Where The Pine Straw Is Now? (Rocks Are Expensive...) Thank You!

When ants decide to go into a home they go in. They even go into million dollar spotless houses. The first ants leave a scent trail for the other ants to follow. They are looking for food to carry to their nest which is the source of the ants. Yes, the pine straw collects moisture that attracts the ants. And spiders love it. There is something called Textraw that does not collect moisture. It is used around businesses and other places. Terror gel is for ants that like sugar. Combat gel if for ants that go for meat, greasy foods. They come in syringes that makes them easy to use. The ants eat this and get it on them and carry it to their nest. It kills the queen and the ants there. In a short time you will see less and less ants.

How Can I Decrease My Gardens Ph?
I Recently Got My Garden Tested For Ph Which I Used Last Year And My Neighbors Garden Which He Is Just Starting This Year, Both Came Out To 7.5 Alkaline. We Probably Shouldnt Have Been Surprised Because The Valley We Live In Actually Long Ago Used To Be A Limestone Quarry. Our Gardens Are About 10,000Sq Ft. Mines In A Square And His Is In A Rectangle. He Used To Have Cows And I Still Have A Few Llamas So We Both Have What Some Might Some Consider Fresh, And &Quot;Aged Manure&Quot; Although I Would Think &Quot;Aged&Quot; Means In Some Drying Area But We Dont Do That. Anyways We Are Working Together On This And Sharing Equipment And Work So We Can Both Feed Our Families. We Are Looking For Some Way To Decrease Our Ph To About 6.5 Or 7 Would Be Good, Because Thats Where Our Plants Like. I Grew Some Food In Mine Last Year But It Could Have Done Better Which Sounds Consistent With Being Outside The Ideal Ph Range. I Have Heard Of Aluminum Sulfur Or Something Like That And We Really Dont Want To Use That If Its A Chemical Thats Not Natural. Also We Looked Into Composting And That Was To Confusing And Time Intensive Especially On Our Scale Which We Mostly Do By Hand And Tractor But Fixing Tractors Takes Time And Money, So We Try To Limit Our Use Of Those. Anyways We'Re A Month Away From Planting Which I Know Is Not Ideal But Is There Anything We Can Do To Start The Process Of Changing The Ph But Still Be Able To Plant? Any Idea Will Do. Oh I Also Heard About Manure Tea And Pine Needles. And He Has 50Gallon Drums And I Have A Few Hundred Feet Of Pine Trees. So Thats A Option To If We Need To. Let Me Know What You Guys Think, Thank You!

I use aluminum sulphate, although you can acidify your soil with sulfur, oaks leaves, pine bark and needles, peat moss, and use of an acidified fertilizer, etc. Your local garden center can recommend the best thing to use. If you want to go strictly organic, peat moss is your best bet. Aluminum sulphate is being used for my blueberries. It has done a good job.

How Would I Do This?
I Want To Litter Box Train My Rabbit But I Dont Know What To Use For Litter Or What Kind Box A Cat Box Or Do They Have Ones For Rabbits And I Wouldnt Know How To Go About Doing It Please Someone Help Me

heya i think i have given you advice before,
So is your rabbit indoors i asume get your rabbit to do its business in its cage you dont really have to have a litter box my aunty did't but here is some advice from someone with a bit more exsperiance in rabbits then me:Rabbits usually take well to litter training, although some flexibility may be required by the owner. Rabbits naturally pick one or more toilet areas, and owners can take advantage of this in litter training.
First a suitable litter is needed. You rabbit will probably like to lay in the litter box and may even nibble on the litter, so something absorbent and safe is necessary. Rabbit urine also has a strong odor, so something that absorbs odor is ideal. Do not use clay or clumping litters, or cedar or pine wood shavings. Organic or paper-based pellets and litters are a good choice (brands include Critter Country, Eco-Straw Pellets, Gentle Touch, Cell-Sorb Plus and Yesterday's News - see Top Alternatives to Cedar and Pine Shavings for more options) Some owners simply use rabbit pellets as litter.
These are economical and safe, but are not a good choice if your rabbit continually eats extra pellets from the litter box and/or is overweight.
For litter pans, cat litter boxes work pretty well, although smaller pans such as cake pans may work for smaller rabbits. If your rabbit tends to back right up to the edge and deposit outside the box, some creativity may be required. A covered cat box is a good option, or a dishpan that has higher sides can work as well (an lower entry can be cut into one side). The larger size of corner litter boxes might work well for smaller rabbits too, as these usually have fairly high backs. If your rabbit tends to tip the pan or kick the litter out, try a heavier litter.
To start, confinement and supervision is the key. If a rabbit is allowed to urinate and defecate wherever it likes from the beginning, it will be much harder to train. At first, keep your rabbit primairly in his (or her cage), which should be fairly small at first, with a litter pan. Place a litter box in the cage, and note where you rabbit eliminates. He (she) may start using the box, or may be pick another corner of the cage as a toilet. If this is the case, then move the litter box to the area your rabbit seems to prefer. Flexibility on litter box placement may be necessary both in and out of the cage.

Once your rabbit is using the litter pan in the cage, allow the rabbit out of the cage in a limited area. Provide a litter box within this area, and perhaps make it enticing by placing a a treat or favorite toy in the box. Watch your rabbit for signs he is about to urinate or defecate (they usually back up and lift their tail slightly), and try to herd him to the box immediately (if your rabbit is very calm about being picked up it should be okay to place him right in the box). If your rabbit uses the box, give the rabbit a treat (food, toy, petting, or praise) right away. If you notice your rabbit tends to head to one area to do its business, consider putting the box here.

Accidents will happen, and punishment has no place in training a rabbit. Your rabbit will absolutely not be able to make a connection with physical punishment and elimitnating outside the litter box. If you catch your rabbit in the act calmly and gently take him or her to the litter box immediately. But, if your don't physically catch your rabbit urinating or defecating, it is too late for your rabbit to make the connection. Just clean up and watch your rabbit a little more closely next time (clean the spot diluted vinegar, or a commercial pet stain/odor remover). The key is to get your rabbit to the box before he goes, so a trip to the litter box every 10 minutes during playtime can be helpful.

Over time, your rabbit will probably develop a preference for using the box, and amount of freedom you give your rabbit can be increased. You may need to provide more boxes as you allow your rabbit acces to more space (rabbits may not go far in search of a box so have them handy). Again, if your rabbit repeatedly chooses one place in he room to eliminate, consider putting or moving a litter box there. Try to work with what your rabbit naturally wants to do, but if the location they "choose" is inconvenient, you can try putting a litter box there for a while and then gradually move it to a better spot. Sometimes, placing a bowl of food where you don't want them to go works too.

The process sounds daunting, but usually goes pretty smoothly as long as the owner works with the rabbit's natural tendencies and provides undivided attention to the rabbit during it's free time in the beginning. Establishing a routine with your rabbit will also help. Sometimes a previously trained rabbit will get a little careless, and this usually means backtracking and restricting freedom until your rabbit is trained again
Hope this helps x

How Do I Mulch Tree/Shrub Beds? I'M In Southeastern Va. Thanks.?

Spread mulch (what you use depends on your personal preferences and what you have growing - pine straw around pines, tec.) from 2 to 4" thick in the beds and nearly up to the trunks of the tree/shrubs, but keep the mulch at least 2" away from the trunks to avoid rot and insect damage to the plant.

Whats The Best Way To Control Weeds In A Vegey Garden?
I Have A Small Garden With About 60 Or So Plants Mostly Peppers Tomatoes And Mellon Plants Ever Day I Go Out And Pull The Weeds Is This My Only Option Its My First Garden And I Just Learned About Weed Guard So Its To Late For That What Should I Do Keep Pulling?

I remember my first garden. The first thing I learned was a lot of respect for farmers and for my mother. Now I have a garden probably a tad smaller than yours. Here in the Northwest, where we get more rain than sun, weeds are a problem. Keep pulling, don't let the weeds get a good start. At one time I thought that being on my hands & knees pulling weeds & mucking in the dirt was good therapy after a day in an office. I still believe that but after I reached senior citizen status my back disagreed with that notion. Next year try mulching with bark or sawdust or leaves (never tried newspaper but I'll try it). DO NOT use pine needles for mulch. Tried that one year and found out that they are highly acidic and my veggies hated it. Try to use little or no chemical bug killers. Liquid fertilizer is a good idea. Soon you will be harvesting and will be really proud of your efforts. Enjoy, there is nothing better than a home grown tomato.


11 Landscaping ideas for small front yards

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