FAQ
Can I Put Cotton Balls In My Hamsters Cage?
I would not suggest doing that... This type of bedding does not dissolve in the stomach if eaten and can therefore cause a stomach blockage. Also the fine fibres have been known to get caught around a hamster's limb and tighten cause injury, even amputation to the limb. The bedding can also become stuck in the hamster's cheekpouch.
As a general rule, any bedding used for hamsters should dissolve if placed in water or a very weak acid solution and should break easily. This will ensure that if eaten by the hamster the bedding material simply dissolves in the stomach and if caught around a limb it is easily broken by the hamster. Any bedding material that does not meet these criteria should not be used. Shredded paper bedding is always best.
If you don't already know, you should never use Pine or Cedar bedding for your pet hamster. Cedar bedding is a rough material that can cause splintering, chapped feet and is almost impossible to correctly digest. Worse yet, cedar reacts to urine, causing toxic fumes called phenols to be released as long as it is in contact with the ammonia. While pine may be a bit softer on a hamster's feet, it often goes through a curing process that leaves dangerous chemicals on the product. Unfortunately there are not usually warning labels on these two types of bedding, potentially leading many new hamster owners to believe they are safe for their pets, but this is not the case.
ASPEN FRESH
Aspen fresh is a pelleted aspen product that has garnered favorable reviews for its absorbency and odor control. It has a natural ability to inhibit mold growth. It is 100% biodegradable, and flushable in small quantities.
ASPEN SHAVINGS
This bedding has a low amount of wood oils and may be preferred for animals with sensitive respiratory systems. Compared to some of the other bedding here, aspen is not quite as absorbent or effective at odor control. However, it is widely available, usually inexpensive, and a good alternative to other wood shavings.
ASPEN SUPREME PELLETED PET BEDDING
Another pelleted aspen product similar to the others, touted for its absorbency and odor control. Safe if ingested. Resists mold growth, superior odor control, biodegradable and highly absorbant. Safe if ingested.
CareFRESH
Manufactured from 100% wood pulp fiber, is a light weight, fluffy bedding, although it is not very attractive in appearance. It is dust free and very absorbent, and has no inks or dyes and is biodegradable. Doesn't disintegrate when wet.
CELL-SORB PLUS
Made of environmentally friendly, recycled paper, with the natural mineral gypsum added for outstanding odor control. Completely eliminates ammonia odor for up to 3 weeks, and absorbs 400% more liquid than wood shavings. Cell-Sorb is most effective when you stir the bedding 3-4 times weekly. It's flushable in moderate quantities, biodegradable, and can be composted, or spread over lawns and gardens as a fertilizer. However, it can be harder to find.
CRITTER COUNTRY
A pelleted straw litter product made from winter wheat and other plant fibers, heat treated to kill fungus, molds and insects. Absorbent, dust free, toilet flushable, won't track and is odor controlling.
PET'S PREFERENCE CRITTER LITTER AND BEDDING
Pelleted product made from 100% recycled paper fiber. These small pellets are biodegradable and can be incinerated, composted, or landfilled. Because the litter doesn't cling to the sides of the cage or litter box, it is easier to keep the cage clean and dry. It absorbs moisture from bottle leaks and claims to last twice as long as other litters. If it should get wet, it won't break apart. Non-toxic and dust free. The natural fibers have been sterilized so your pet gets the highest level of protection against bacteria, mold, and fungus. It is super absorbent, eliminates odors, and neutralizes ammonia. Depending where you are it can be hard to find.
WOODY PET
This is a white softwood based product, but the manufacturer states that the processing removes 100% of the dangerous aromatic hydrocarbons (along with resins, oils, tars, acids and water). It comes in a granular form, which expands as it absorbs moisture and is said to be very absorbent.
YESTERDAY'S NEWS
Litter made from recycled newspaper, now available in a softer, looser pellet designed as bedding, as well as the original larger pellet. Very absorbent (the pellets degrade as they absorb moisture) and no dust. Usually easy to find.
What Is The Best Bedding To Use In Your Stable?
I Have A Mini Horse Who I Lock Up At Night Time And For Short Periods During The Day In A Small Stall With A Day Yard On It. The Dirt In His Day Yard Is Starting To Smell Of Urine. When He Is Out Grazing My Lawn During The Day I Hose The Dirt In The Day Yard To Try And Soak In The Smell But After Being Locked Up At Night It Smells Again The Next Day. He Uses His Stall As A Toilet To Poo In And Sleeps In His Yard. He Seems To Pee Around The Edge Of His Yard So The Middle Is Kept Clean For Him To Lie Down On. How Can I Make His House More Attractive To Him For Sleeping So He Will Do His Business Outside And How Can I Stop His Yard From Smelling So Bad?? If I Put Wood Shaving In The Day Yard It Will Only Blow Away. Should I Put A Trailer Load Of Riversand In To Help With The Absorbtion Rather Than The Dirt Thats In There At The Moment? I Have Looked Up Lots Of Horse Bedding And It Seems That A Product Called Woody Pet Is Best But Im Not Sure If I Can Buy It In Australia.
Dirt is not good for stalls at all. Its hard to fully clean and doesnt absorb very well. I'd try straw or wood shavings... perferrable the wood shavings. Pine shavings are desired because they are absorptive. Shavings and sawdust burn much slower than straw in the case of a barn fire and help keep odor down. Straw usually does not have a lot of dust that will irritate the horses airways and eyes. Its very comfortable and absorbent but requires a lot of labor for cleaning stalls
The beddings in their stall is very imporant...It soaks up the urine and moisture from the manure, cushions the horses feet and legs and it encourages the horse to lie down and rest. So i hope you jump on that soon! :]]
Help! I'M Getting My First Horse!!!?
So, I'Ve Full, Long-Term Leased 3 Horses Already. I'Ve Been Riding For A Couple Years, And I Am An Advanced-Intermediate Rider. I Am An Eventer With An Emphasis In Showjumping And Dressage. I Have A Helpful Trainer To Guide Me Too. I Also Have The Money For Horse Ownership, And Budget Is Not A Problem For Me. That Being Said I Am Ready For A Horse. Don'T Answer Saying I Need More Experience. This Is My Life, And My Money Being Spent, So You Don'T Need To Worry. Anyway, My Price Range Is 25-30K, And The Main Option For Me Is A 12 Year Old Mare, 16.1Hh, Jumps 5 Feet With Ease, 4'9&Quot; Oxer, 4'6&Quot; Courses, And Has Shown In 3'7&Quot; 3'9&Quot; And 4' Jumpers This Year All With A Teenage Rider. She'S 25K. If I Don'T Get Her, I'Ll Get Something Like Her. What Should I Know Going In To Horse Ownership? What'S Everything I'Ll Need, Even The Little Things? Like I Said, Money Is No Object So I Can Afford The High-End Tack Etc. But Obviously Nothing Crazy Expensive. Please List Suggestions And Links Of Items That You Prefer! Like I Said, I'M An Eventer So I'Ll Need A Set Of Jumping Tack And Dressage Tack. I Already Have All Of My Grooming Supplies, So Don'T List That. Also, My Barn Provides Feeding And Worming. I'M Planning To Show, Mainly In Showjumping And Some Dressage. An Eventing Show Sometimes Too (I Don'T Care For Xc). Just Local Stuff At First. I Can Already Jump 3'3&Quot; On A Little 13Hh Unfinished School-Pony, So I'Ll Be Able To Go Much Higher With This Horse. Please List Any And All Advice For Me, Links, And Stuff I'Ll Need. Do Not Answer If You'Re Gonna Be Rude. Say Things Politely If You Must. Please Be Respectful. Thanks In Advance!
Congrats 
That's very exciting, glad you know what you want!
Are you boarding at a facility? They may have some things provided. For instance, we have lunge lines and whips for people to use, extra halters and leads, buckets, saddle racks, bridle/halter hooks, brooms, loads of brushes and even some tack that boarders have left behind. I would ask your boarding place what they provide. If you aren't boarding, start fresh. When you go to your next lesson, make a list of everything you use, notice your horse using, and keep notes of what you do and don't like.
Basics:
Horse
Trainer
Vet
Dentist
Farrier
Trailer
Truck
In the stall:
Salt/mineral lick
Grain creep/bucket/tub
Hay net
Grain scoop (figure out how large it should be when you decide your horse's diet.)
Water bucket + heater or heated water bucket
Extra bucket (you can never have enough buckets)
Bedding (Pine shavings)
Stall sign (not a necessity, but I love having a well made sign on my horse's stall http://www.uniquelyequine.com/store-prod... doubles as a halter hook)
Bridle/halter hook
Saddle bar/rack
Muck Bucket (http://www.horse.com/item/bucket-cart-fo...
Large trash bin for grain storage: http://www.lowes.com/pd_227199-45951-340...
Stable supplies:
Broom
Manure fork
Standing tie
Treats
Bucket
Bathing/showing supplies:
Shampoo
Conditioner
Baby oil
Show sheen
Detangler
Hoof polish
Bath mitt
Bath curry (a gel or rubber one)
Yarn
Braiding bands
Electrical tape
Trimmers
Medical kit(Source: http://www.greenhorn-horse-facts.com/horse-first-aid.html):
Thermometer - for monitoring fever.
Stethoscope - for heart rate and respiration.
Sharp scissors
Wire cutters - in case he gets tangled in a wire fence.
Latex gloves
Gauze
Sterile bandages - such a tefla pads. Non-stick pads.
Vet wrap.
Adhesive tape
Antiseptic/disinfectant such as betadine or peroxide.
Triple antibiotic cream such as Neosporin for minor cut.
Epsom Salt - used for soaking feet and drawing out abcesses.
Witch hazel - used for itchy skin.
Phenylbutazone (bute) for pain relief.
Veterinarians and farriers phone number.
A veterinary emergency handbook for basic instructions.
Bucket.
Sponge.
Towels or Rags
Hypodermic syringe (without needle) for cleaning wounds.
Sterile saline solution for cleaning wounds. Contact solution works well.
Medicinal spray or cream- tea tree oil, healing creams > Corona and Mane and Tail both make good ones.
Standing boots
Tack:
Dressage saddle- I ride in a really nice dressage saddle that I don't know the name of it. It has two letters on the flap that I can't remember... I'll try to remember. I think the first is an F or T
Jumping saddle- I love my Pessoa Gen-x xch! It is super comfortable and well made.
Girths- My girth is an HDR leather one, it does it's job and looks really nice. I don't see the point in overspending if a cheaper girth works.
Pads- I really like Roma or Lami-Cell. They both are super cushy and thick, absorbing moisture and looking nice while doing it. http://www.horse.com/Search.aspx?query=lami%20cell http://www.horse.com/item/roma-ecole-cloud-quilt-pad/SLT900890/
Show pad/numnah- sheepskin is the way to go! Otherwise I like thick, fleecy-type with velcro securing straps.
Half Pad- Exselle are nice
Bridle- Pessoa is fantastic, but at home, opt for an HDR. They are actually really well made and don't break the bank
Padded leather halter and lead http://www.perrisleather.com/product/437710/190P/_/Padded_Leather_Halter_w_Engraved_Plate
Trailering/shipping halter http://www.perrisleather.com/product/0/125/_/Sheepskin_Shipping_Halter
Rope/Nylon halter and lead
Shop around, craigslist has some great stuff every now and then (obviously have your parents help you out...) and let people know you are looking for stuff. You'd be amazed at what people give away or sell cheap.
Bird Help!!! How Much A Month For A Parrotlet?
I Want To Know How Much Is It Going To Cost Me To Own One Parrotlet? How Much For Food, Toy, Etc In A Month?
You'll need a sturdy cage large enough for at least 2 manzanita perches---don't just use the too skinny pine dowels that come w a cage. Birds need wider perches under their feet, not skinny ones. Toys can be homemade like empty paper towel rolls, straws, thick shoelace wrapped & tied thru several of the cage bars, my birds even have small rocks to they play w & push around their cage. I also offer a larger rock that is steady enough for them to stand on. I would estimate the initial cost for the correct cage set-up would be $100 to $125 to start.
A bag of good quality seed mix, a cuttle bone plus fresh fruit & veggies. Prob about $7 a month. Someone mentioned a "mite protector" but those things are dangerous & quite nasty to keep around birds (or any pet). Some states ban the use of the active ingredient in them. First, most pet birds never get mites. Don't let the bird or cage be near any wild birds or other pet birds. If your bird were to ever get mites you would still need to seek treatment from a vet. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) regulates it. The fumes those things emmit damage tiny, delicate bird respiratory systems. The only reason stores sell them is because some bird owners think they need them. The hilarious (& sad) thing is the reason owners think they need them is because they see them on the pet store shelf.
I mentioned vets. If you can't afford the vet you can't afford the pet. Your bird will get sick or injured at sometime in it's life. Start saving every month so you can pay a vet bill when the need arises.
I've had a couple of my birds for 30 years and I don't cover their cages, the birds would think I had lost my mind if I tried to cover their cages!!! They sleep fine---better than I do. I just offered you an estimate on initial cost, you should go to a pet store and check prices, that's the only way you'll know the actual costs in your area.
How To Adapt To The &Quot;Country&Quot;?
I'M Going To Go Visit My Grandpa In Georgia(The State) This Summer For A Few Weeks. Its So Hard To Used To Being There...Usually We'Re There For 2 Weeks - 1 Month And Half. Me And My Mom Are Going To Go Visit This Summer As A I Said Before...We'Re Going To Be Spending A Majority Of Our Time At His House. There Isn'T Much To Do At His House...But The Hard Part Is Adapting To The Country...I Live In California In The Bay Area..And Its Not Quiet..Being A Very Loud Person, I Hate Quiet Places Like The Country...How Can I Adapt Being In The Country For Like 3 Weeks Being A City Girl?
Climb trees, catch lightning bugs in a jar (don't forget to put holes in the top and let them go after a little while), ask your mom for a wireless satellite card for your laptop. Swim in the creek, fish in the local area. Play with the animals (if any). Pick flowers and give them to your mom, draw in the dirt. Write a book, keep a journal, have picnics. Go squirrel hunting, don't kill them though if you don't eat them. Same goes with the fish. Go to the malt shop, if they have one in town. Do some painting, write poems. If your in the woods take a compass, cell phone, flash light and put some crackers or a sandwich in your pocket. Always remember that the sun sets in the west and rises in the east. (In GA anyway). Watch for snakes if you go hiking. Oh the bugs might be bad, get some skin so soft from Avon. Bugs hate it.
Just enjoy not having to worry about your normal everyday life. Make it an adventure. Have So Much Fun. Oh you can build a secret fort or hut. We did that as kids, use limbs pine straw and what ever else your grandpa will let you use.
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