FAQ
I Am Getting A New Kitten. What Whould I Need For Her.?
She Is Young.
Congratulations on your new kitten. Hope she is young enough to leave momma cat and her littermates. 8 weeks would be great and 10 weeks even better.
New Kitten Checklist:-
Food
(find out what she is eating prior to coming home to you, keep the same food if it is a high quality brand. If you need to change, transition slowly by mixing the old and new food together)
Water
(filtered water would be the best, you can also invest in a water fountain if you like. Petmate and Drinkwell are popular ones)
Food/Water Dish
(Kittens and cat like to eat and drink from shallow bowl. Dog bowls are not suitable because they are deeper and cats do not like to get their whiskers wet or soggy. Stainless steel and ceramic are the best. Avoid double serving dishes - keep a separate dish for food and water)
Grooming Tools
(short haired cats require less grooming than long haired. Invest in good quality clippers, brush, flea comb, wet wipes, and I like to use a chamois cloth to give my kitty's coat a high sheen and glow after grooming. The furminator is also a good tool to help with controlling excessive shedding. Kitten do not need to be bathed unless they get very dirty/messy)
Litter and Litterbox
(She will need at least one litterbox for your kitten. To begin with, choose a smaller one where the sides are lower so she is able to climb in and out easily. Remember, not all cats like a covered litterbox. It is only convenient for the owner.
There are many kinds of litter to choose from and I personally prefer clumping litter made from natural biodegradable ingredients like corn, wheat and pine)
Scratching Post and Play Structures
(This is very important to get for your kitty because you do not want her to learn to scratch your furniture. Scratching is a natural habit and you shouldn't punish er. When you buy a scratching post, make sure it's one that is sturdy and will not tip off easily. All cats love to climb and getting her a nice cat tree of playhouse will allow her to exercise her natural talent without ransacking your house)
Stain and Odor Remover
(Accidents happen so be prepare to clean up after your kitten. You must remove all traces of urine from carpeting because a kitten will urinate on the same spot again if she scent it.)
Carrier
(When you bring your kitten to visit the vet, you will need a carrier. It is important that you choose one that fits the kitten comfortably and she can stand and turn around easily. You can choose hard sided or soft sided carriers and they come is all shapes and design)
Collar and ID Tag
I hope your cat stays indoor. If she is outdoor, a collar and ID Tag is a must. I am not a huge fan of collar for indoor cat because of the possible risk of strangulation and getting stuck in structures. But it is up to you to make that decision. Choose a breakaway collar if you must.
Toys
(Kitten loves to play and make sure you always supervise her playtime. Favorites are jingle bells, mylar balls, feathered toys, dangling toys, lure toys, and I recommend you try Da Bird and Cat Dancer. They go absolutely crazy for them. Some toys you can make at home. Milk Jug Ring is a hit in all cat household, drinking straws, a wad of paper, etc)
Bed
(Just to remind you, you cannot place a kitten on a bed and expect her to sleep there quietly like a newborn baby. Kittens will choose wherever they want to snooze and the place changes all the time. Just make a simple comfortable bedding for her should she choose to sleep in a bed)
This site is very useful in learning more about taking good care of your kitten. Hope you'll visit and get more information from there.
http://cats.about.com/od/kittencare/Kitt...
I hope I've covered it all for you. Good Luck and Best Wishes to you and your kitty!
I Have A Male Dog, A Year Old, Doggy-Door Trained From Birth. Suddenly He Pees On Everything In The House.?
He Is Half Beagle And Half Siberian Husky. He Is Just A Couple Weeks Over A Year Old, I Have Had Him Since Birth. (His Mom Is My Beagle, Who Lives With Him) She Trained Him And All His Litter-Mates How To Use The Doggie-Door To Go Outside To Do Their Business Since They Were Pretty Young, Before I Found Homes For All The Rest. He Has Been Good With This, And There Has Never Been A Problem. Suddenly About A Week Ago Or So, He Begins Marking A Leg Of The Kitchen Table, And The Trash-Can. Now He Floods The Trash-Can Every Day, And Sprinkles The Same Two Table-Legs, And A Computer Tower Which I Have Since Removed From His Access. Today He'S Begun Flooding A Barrier Gate That Keeps Him And His Mom From Getting Into The Carpeted Areas Of The House. (They Have A Kitchen, Dining Area, And A Laundry Room To Roam Freely In, Additional To A Large Fenced In Back Yard That They Freely Go Out And Come Back In From At Will) I Walk Them 1.5 Miles Every Day, Sometimes Every Two Or Three Days. They Love Car Rides Which They Tend To Get Several Times A Week. I Give Him Attention When I Can, So I Can'T Be Sure If He Is Acting Out Because I Leave Them At Home When I Work, Or If This Is Just A Territorial Marking Stage That He Has Arrived At This Point In His Maturity. He Also Had Begun Tearing Up His And His Mom'S Bedding A Couple Months Back, Which I Have Tried To Abate With Chewable Toys And Bones. He Just Carries Them All Outside, And Then Tears The Bedding Up When He'S Back Inside Without A Bone To Chew On. (Argh!!) I Drilled A Hole Through The Center Of A Nylabone And Tethered It To A Table Leg Using Some Tough Nylon Looped Rope, But I Haven'T Been Able To Fully Test That Against His Teeth Since The Monumental Flooding I Found Today When I Returned Home Was My Last Straw. I'Ve Locked Him Outside, Which Means I Have To Manually Let His Mom In And Out, And They'Re No Longer Maintenance Free. She'S A Good Dog, And Hasn'T Peed In The House In Years. I Constantly Have To Mop Up Pints Of His Urine When I Get Home, Drying With Paper Towels, Then Cleaning With Clorox Wipes (To Remove Pheremonal Residues) And Then Mopping The Entire Gamut With Pine-Sol To Get Rid Of The Smell. Doesn'T Matter, It'S Always The Same Spots, Plus A New One Here And There. I Spank Him And Rub His Nose In It, The Obvious Thing. Now I'M Leaving Him Locked Out For A Day Or Two Each Time, And It'S Not Helping. I'M Worried I'M Adding To His Anxiety By Keeping Him Outside, But I Can'T Take Him Converting My House Into A Foul Smelling Urine Pond Every Single Time I Leave Him Unattended. This Never Happened Prior To A Week And A Half Ago..... And This Comes At A Time That I Was Already Wanting To Set Up An Appointment To Get Him Neutered, Since I Have Put It Off This Long For Various Unimportant Reasons. (His Mom Was Fixed After She Weened The Pups, So No Worries About Further Pregnancies There) I'Ll Be Getting Him Fixed This Next Month. Does Anybody Have Any Ideas Of What To Try To Stop This Indoor Peeing? Or Maybe A Perspective/Approach That I Haven'T Thought Of? It Would Really Be Appreciated... I Love My Pup, But Our Relationship Is Trending Towards A Sour Area, And I Just Want To Fix It And Have Him Back To His Old Better Behaved Self. Any Thoughts And Ideas Will Be Appreciated. Thanks! Jack (P.S... Sorry This Was So Long-Winded!)
First - STOP spanking him and rubbing his nose in it! That is barbaric, and you can see it doesn't work. The only thing that will accomplish is to turn a sweet dog aggressive and neurotic. Trust me, he doesn't associate being spanked and having his nose rubbed in his urine with having peed in the house. There might be a correlation to people, but the dog doesn't make the connection. About the only way for a dog to make the connection, is to be caught in the act, verbal reprimand only - no corporal punishment, no nose rubbing - and be taken immediately outside.
Since he's mature, he's more likely "marking" than peeing. This is a very normal male behavior (some females mark also) for claiming his territory. Neutering may decrease the marking, but it usually never eliminates it, and it really doesn't matter if you neuter early or later. Also, mow that he's mature, it's possible that your female is joining in on the marking. Many times a male or female will pee or mark an the other dog will follow suite to mix his smell in with theirs. So you really should find out for certain who is doing what.
You can always go back to square on in the potty breaking - WITHOUT the spanking and nose rubbing! and try that. But they also make belly bands for males to prevent marking in the house. This might not work for you, though, since the dogs have free access to the outside and they must be removed to go out. Also, bleach really isn't the best thing to remove all the smell. You need a good enzymatic cleaner like Nature's Miracle and then clean anything that may have been peed on. Or he may have to be kept outside when you're gone. Just be sure to supply him with adequate shelter and water if that becomes necessary. Then when you're home, keep him in a confined area where you can watch him closely and catch him in the act. Good luck
How Much Should I Charge To Plant Three 3 Gal. Azaleas In Dry/Hard Clay?
I'Ve Been Cutting Grass To Make Some Extra Money This Summer And One Of My Clients Would Like Me To Install Some Bushes In A Pine Straw Bed. What Is A Fair Price? The Dirt Needs To Be Turned And Mixed With Garden Soil. The Soil Costs $8 And The Azaleas Will Cost $62. I Have To Replace The Pine Straw (About 3 Bales). I Think The Work Will Take About 2 Hours. How Much Would You Be Willing To Pay And How Much Would You Want To Make?
if you want to be known as good at what you do, don't....planting azaleas now is a death sentence for them and your reputation.... plant in fall after temps have cooled, with enough time, about six weeks, before deep freeze in the ground.... not frost, they can handle that, but deep frozen ground.... depending on your zone, that could be Sept thru October as good planting times.... into November if in the south......
How Do I Care For Roses?
I Just Bought A New House And I Have Lots Of Roses In My Front Yard I Am Lost On How To Care Of Them. And They Are Dieing. 
I Am Not A Person With A Green Thumb. I Never Had Roses Before. Help With All The Rose Help I Can Get. Thanks
make sure that they get plenty of sunlight,air water.
Prune roses in early spring once the rose starts to show signs of new growth, usually in the form of tiny red buds swelling. These buds will become new branches.
Step2
Cut out any obviously dead or damaged branches first. Then cut out all but four or five healthy stems, each ideally about as thick as a pencil.
Step3
Cut the rose bush back by 1/3 to 1/2, depending on how tall you want it to be. Make these cuts right above an outward facing bud - that is, a red bud that's on the outside of the rose bush. This directs the bud to grow up and out, leaving the center of the rose bush open for a prettier shape and better air circulation.
Step4
Fertilize roses regularly during the growing season. Roses are hungry plants, demanding lots of nutrients for best growth and flowering. Each rose grower has his or her own favorite method. One of the easiest is to buy a slow-release granular rose food and work it into the soil so it can feed the plant all season long. Otherwise, you'll want to fertilize the rose with a liquid fertilizer every three to four weeks during the growing season (stop in early autumn) or according to package directions.
Step5
Water diligently. Roses need a steady source of water during the growing season, about 1 inch a week from rain or watering. In arid regions of the country, if you have several roses, consider installing a do-it-yourself drip irrigation system.
Summer Rose Care
Step1
Mulch. Roses need less weeding and watering and have fewer diseases if you mulch. Lay down 1 to 2 inches of organic mulch, such as wood chips, pine needles, grass clippings or other biodegradable material.
Step2
Deadhead. This simply means trimming spent roses off the shrub to encourage it to produce more. While some roses bloom only in one big flush in June, others are bred to keep producing off and on all season long.
Step3
Spray. If your rose becomes diseased or has an insect infestation, you may want to deal with it by spraying. (However, first try simply trimming off the diseased portion of the plant and giving the plant a good strong blast from a hose.) If you choose to spray, first identify the problem by trimming off the diseased part and taking it to a reliable garden center, where the staff can prescribe the correct pesticide or herbicide.
Fall and Winter Rose Care
Step1
Stop fertilizing roses in early autumn, at least one month before your region's first annual frost date. Fertilizing too long into autumn encourages roses to produce tender new growth that will get nipped by cold.
Step2
Protect roses as needed in late autumn, after your region's first hard freeze. In regions where temperatures don't fall below 20 degrees F (USDA zone 9 and warmer), no additional winter protection is needed. In cooler regions where temperatures don't fall below 10 degrees below zero (zones 6 to 8), a simple mounding of several inches of soil over the base of the rose should suffice. In cold-winter regions where temperatures get colder than 10 degrees below zero (zone 5 and colder), mound to about a foot about a month after your region's last average frost date; additionally, two weeks later, the entire plant should be wrapped in burlap to protect the upper parts.
I'M Interested In Getting A Guinea Pig As A Pet...What Should I Know Before Making The Plunge?
I Want A Pet That Is A Little More &Quot;Interactive&Quot; Then My Current Betta Fish. I Live In An Apartment With A Roommate, And I'M Not Ready To Make The Time Committment For A Dog. I Don'T Really Want A Cat Either, Because Of The Clawing Issue, And Also, They Can Require A Good Bit Of $$ For Shots, Etc. I'M Thinking A Guinea Pig Would Be A Good Alternative, But I'M Just Not Sure How Much Work They Require And If It Would Meet My Need For Something Cute, Furry, And Loveable. I Need All The Advice I Can Get! :O)
Firstly, if you do decide to get a pig, try and find a rescue group that's local! Petfinder.com is great for this.
I've had the pigs for years, and while they're really not that big of a time commitment, they can be somewhat cuddly, offer a higher level of interaction than a betta, and are incredibly cute. They all have really distinct personalities! Most are shy, but I had one who would roughhouse with kittens, sit on my shoulder while I did dishes (like a parrot), and was quite the demanding little girl!
Cage-wise.. I usually use large plastic containers, the largest ones I can find, with moderately high sides (around 12", at least. I had a shorter one, and the pigs would jump out whenever they felt like it, and run around the room.) You can get a metal cage, but it's easier for them to throw bedding out, the metal corrodes quickly, bends, and is expensive. The plastic containers are easy to hose out, is cheaper, and won't corrode. Also, many people get the cheap plastic kiddie pools and use those for exercise pens, or as actual housing (although I recommend getting wire mesh to encircle the pool with).
When you get a container, get a large water bottle, and figure out where on the container you want it. then, drill 3 holes: 2 on the top, small, slightly wider than the bottle. and then drill 1 larger hole at the bottom, for the spout (should be about 3" from the bottom of the container). Run a long piece of wire through the top holes, set the bottle in, and you've got a water setup.
Use 1-2" of pine, newspaper, moss, etc, for bedding (not cedar, they can't handle the scent, or straw - it can poke/scratch their eyes). They usually pee in the same corner (or under their shelter), so you can pick out/refresh that spot more often, other than that change all the bedding every 7-10 days.
I give each of my pigs at least half an hour of floor time per day. Be careful at first - they'll run to any shadowy area, and can get stuck or hard to get to. But, while watching dinner or eating tv, letting them run around is good for them.
They are nocturnal, but will be awake during the day. They need some sort of hiding spot - cardboard boxes are ok, but not great (glue!). Mine particularly like the pop can boxes, which are long. But the favorite shelter is one I made years ago, out of scrap wood. about 10"x10", 5" tall, and with a few slats on top. Just make sure the wood isn't chemically treated.
They need/love veggies! Romaine lettuce, 2-3 leaves per day per pig is a good range. Lots of free-choice timothy hay! Brome is more commonly available most places, but has a really high calcium content. Alfalfa as treats - its too rich. Grass hay is ok. Also, lots of vitamin C!!! They can never have too many oranges. Some pigs like grapefruit too.
Finding a vet who is experienced in guinea pigs way BEFORE you have an issue is a great thing.. in the event of a sick pig, they are incredibly valuable. Most general vets have no clue how to properly treat a pig. (I took a pig to a vet once for head tilt, and I was told to give the pig an injection of a substance that would have killed it!) They don't need annual shots, but in the event they get sick, a vet is usually necessary, if increasing their Vitamin C intake doesnt improve the situation.
High quality pelleted food is a must, along with lots of romaine and any veggie you have! Don't get stuff from wal mart.. order a high quality feed from a local coop. There are several kinds, and it's never more than $10 or so for 50lbs, so its cheaper too! Ask for show cavy feed.
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